With the grain and then a few strokes warm iron is what I do.

My wife has been going bonkers trying to book a shot of the Pfizer.. She finally got us scheduled for this Friday for a drive through that is 2 1/2 hours away and the other side of a mountain pass. The pass is closed right now due to avalanche danger. I love my wife and all but........

Metal edges and snow plow is the best for going fast on packed down single tracks. In my experience.

As my German cabinetmaker father in law told me. "You can always cut it shorter but you can't cut it longer."

Unbreakable crust in the moon light would be Prime Time.

That combo has worked for me for a few years but I'm far from a charger.

Those are not my pictures. Got them on the internet. Touring skins that you put on when you go up and take off when you ski down have a temporary "glue". More like sticky gum. The skis the have the two narrow skins were popular once. The strips were glued into a grove routed into the base. Both skis...

So this is what you mean. Gorilla Glue I think. I woild not contact cement. It might not stick the skin the a plastic base material. I might stick to a foam ski core. It would stick to a wood core.

I see what you mean now. I had skis with that pattern. It was supposed to hold wax better. Do not glue your skins to the ski unless you want them to never come off. The glue on the skin should be fine. I would not want to experiment with routing scales in the ski for my wife just before a ski trip. ...

That is a waxless ski. I'm confused why you want to cut more pattern into the bottom.
I would not want to put Klister on a waxless ski
I use skins with my waxless skis. The glue that comes with the skins will stick to the ski base until you want to take it off.

I'm not an expert