Uhh Targas..... Not a fan of those bindings, but ski what you got. The wedges will make a very noticeable difference on those. Just carpet test the ones you have with one unramped on one foot and a ramped one on the other, and I think you'll see the difference. The wedges also eliminate some of the ...

If you want a heel attachment, I would just add the heel tube that Burnt Mountain already offers for that binding, as it'd bolt right on - no idea on what that would cost though. I'm sure BMD also has replacement heels for a reasonable price. Otherwise if you're looking for an alternate, you really ...

T2's were about the worst for rocker launch. What binding are you currently running and how much do you weigh? AXL's have a higher toe bar that cures most rocker launch and also has an adjustable pivot that you likely be beneficial for your learning. They're not light though, but there's plenty of u...

Drive screws by hand and you'll usually avoid splitting plastic, and generally get better threads cut (and limit potential for stripping a hole). That being said, old plastic randomly failing/exploding isn't just myth. I've seen plenty of old boots and bindings explode on the hill - which is why I'l...

ScottyBob - eh, forgot about them. I get their concept, but it only really would come into play on hardpack. I can lay railroad tracks on regular alpine skis with no problem on tele's, so the bobtails have no appeal to me. I'd venture he sells more of his traditional tailed skis these days, but I co...

No one makes a tele-specific ski anymore (from a downhill perspective), nor should they. The last iteration of "tele" skis were the exact same as their alpine counterparts with a different top-sheet, so it doesn't make sense for ski makers to duplicate their inventory for no reason. All modern tele ...

You're going to need a bellowed boot if you want to cross-over between telemark and AT via a telemark tech system (tech toe + heel throw. If you want something to occasionally work with a tech heel, you'd need an old Scarpa TX-pro (when they still included the tech heel inserts) or TX (NTN boots), o...

Stick with where you're at. For burly gear, boot center is the best place to start. If you don't like it, you can move the binding back by only drilling two more holes since the pattern is evenly spaced (1.5" between holes).

Keep in mind that the 27.5 and the 28 share the same shell size, it's the same boot, only the liners are different... I think the liners are the same as well - just pre-molded to slightly different sizes. But once you thermo-mold the liner, you'd end up with the same result from either boot within ...

For my money - I'd go with the Outlaw X. The main complaint I heard from a few guys I ran into with Outlaws was stepping in with brakes on the previous version was pretty finicky, and I believe that was supposed to be mostly addressed with the X. Regarding boots, I wouldn't make too much of a judgem...