How do you even go uphill?...

[CwmRaider]

If you were sticking blue was too warm. One reason why I like Rex Universal Tar, great wax for fresh snow, covers blue and green temperature ranges easily, and I like the way it smells.

-1 to -25 C, That sounds too easy. What's the catch? Why would someone use 2 different Swix waxes over the Rex?

It just started snow something like 12 hours ago and now you guys have me thinking about buying wax.

Hi @JB TELE
First see here
https://www.telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4771
Possibly some loss of glide when it gets very cold
@tkarhu also smitty reports in this thread that short skins work ok on the Rex Tar
I got a tin but had no time to experiment...

[Sidney Dunkin]

Sometimes even with the right kick wax snow will stick to the bottom of your skis when you stop. You may need to remove the stuck snow before you can move forward. Sometimes it will rub off on its own after a few kicks when you get started but other times you need to aggressively rub your ski on the snow with weight on it to remove it. Failure to remove this stuck snow can cause more snow to stick, creating the problem you described. I’ve been out with newbies who have their skis waxed the same as mine and they’re having problems while I don’t. Removing that stuck snow every time you stop is something you need to be aware of.

Laying warm skis on the snow can also cause snow to stick to them. It’s possible that if you didn’t completely remove all of that frozen on snow it could cause more snow to stick.

[fisheater]

I may have used my X-skin over Rex Universal, I’m not really sure. I don’t use my X-skins often, however I am warming up to them.
I would probably try my X-skins over Rex Universal if temps were a couple degrees below freezing, as when it is cold that wax is hard to the touch. In warmer temps it has a certain stickiness that may be a problem.

[JB TELE]

Appreciate all of the info!

[Chass3ur]

Thanks for an interesting thread. I've used kick wax in track skiing before, so I do rather understand the concepts of wax temps, kick pockets and techniques bit. I basically dislike waxing enough in that nordic center-y mode of ski that I just skate now.

But I am asking here about nearer to bc style stuff. I have a couple of different old tele setups. When I go uphill or rolling, or even Colorado hut touring, I just skin 'em up. Still, I am wondering what is the functional limit on steepness using gripwax for standard, wider (like 70mm) uncambered tele skis?

It would be cool to not mess with skins unless I was almost headwalled-- ha not really but let's say like in the 25%+ range. Assuming I use the "full-ski grip wax, ironed, polar" technique described here, what do you think the limit is? Also assume it's mostly unloaded day touring. Also assume I like to be able to glide, but I don't really care about pure speed.

Like sometimes I uphill ski at alpine ski resorts, and some of the routes are very very steep. But I could just avoid those, and then how steep could I go? Any pointers, or should I just see what works?

[fisheater]

@Chass3ur in nice powder snow, in cold temps (below 25 F) you can climb easy blue at the resort pitches. I don’t iron in polar, I cork it. I don’t kick wax, other than polar, beyond the heel.
I’m not saying putting kick wax beyond the heel doesn’t add grip. I am saying that grip wax beyond the heel just 6 or 8 inches kills glide, and at 6-8 inches beyond the heel, grip was not improved at all. I quit going beyond the heel, and with my current wax/skin system I can’t see myself waxing beyond the heel. My system definitely works for me.
So I cork my polar, with a natural cork, and shine it up nicely. I don’t otherwise grip wax beyond the heel. I’m a late bloomer in the use of X-skin.
If I didn’t have an X-skin, I would use a narrow skin attached to the ski tip, and cut at the back of the heel. It would be light and not take up room. Mine would be mohair. For a full skin, I would go nylon, mohair mix. I would just order a the narrow width of my ski. The only question would be if I needed a tail hook.
I’m pretty good with wax. I don’t ski with other people often, but on the trails I ski, I climb in other’s herringbone tracks. When I went to Whitegrass, I was never outclimbed as far as ski grip. It was a different story when we talk about 30 year old local billy goats, and a 60 year old guy from the rolling hills of Michigan. They could out climb me, but they were good at pretending they weren’t faster on the up.
You’re in a ski up, to ski down area. My waxing philosophy is shaped by the up, down, up, down nature of my skiing. When you get to the bottom of your run, you can easily scrape off the kick wax from heel to tail for better glide.
You should always carry a scraper. I carry two, one to scrape, one to clean the scraper. Most guys don’t, but I use the Swix Nordic metal scrapers. I have been using them for years. They don’t screw up my bases. They do strip kick wax far more effectively than a plastic scraper.

[mca80]

Polar grip wax outside of the pocket would not be working here this week. Heck, even polar in the grip zone must be applied lightly, but I was out in -10F this morning. I think for Colorado uphill you will be better off using skins vs any arcane waxing methodology. Steep and lengthy climbs, why bother with anything other than skins?

[fisheater]

I think you make a valid point @mca80 , my thought was he still has a couple miles of approach that that makes k&g a priority too. I did suggest a narrow skin cut at the heel that could offer k&g on the approach, as part of the kit. You don’t want to mix warmer wax with skins.

[lilcliffy]

Polar grip wax outside of the pocket would not be working here this week. Heck, even polar in the grip zone must be applied lightly, but I was out in -10F this morning.

-24C (-10F) should be ideal for Swix Polar- but, yes, you wont need much.

[Inspiredcapers]

It finally ‘warmed’ up enough (-23C) to get some decent grip with Polar today. I swear the Green Mans grin got a little wider when we were out playing this afternoon.