Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
- lilcliffy
- Posts: 2823
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 7:20 pm
- Location: Stanley, New Brunswick, Canada
- Ski style: Nordic backcountry touring
- Favorite Skis: Asnes Ingstad BC; Asnes Gamme 54 BC; Asnes Storetind Carbon; Madshus Annum; Asnes Comabt Nato
- Favorite boots: Alfa Guard Advance BC; Alpina Alaska BC; Crispi Svartisen BC; Scarpa T4
- Occupation: Forestry Professional
Instructor at Maritime College of Forest Technology
Husband, father, farmer and logger
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
@rickjamesbrown
The skin on top of "hard" grip waxes or glide waxes will not negatively affect the skin adhesive.
You want a base prep (grip or glide wax) that you can apply the skin directly on top of.
(I generally use a very hard(cold) grip wax as my base layer.)
(Many use glide wax as their base layer.)
(I have a thread in the Wiki section of the site on my approach to waxing my backcountry Nordic touring skis.)
Grip/kick wax does not bond well to glide wax.
You could choose not to apply a base wax to the kicker skin section- applying kickwax of the day only to that section.
I personally prefer to use very hard grip wax on the entire base- this preference is both a product of the terrain and snow I ski on as well as the typical mid-winter temperatures.
For example- I find that there is an absolute sweet spot where Swix Polar both grips and glides well ~ -15C to -25C where I don't need to apply any kick wax at all! In my midwinter I can often get week-or-two stretches with excellent kick, climbing traction and glide with a Polar base alone! (I had about 12 days of these conditions earlier in February.)
I avoid soft kick waxes and the skin. If I move to a soft kick wax or klister then I scrape it off before putting on the skin.
I always test the performance of the kicker skin before moving to a soft kick wax or klister.
In my shoulder season skiing- late fall/early spring- I often move to soft wax and/or klister alone and/or waxless scaled skis- that way I don't have to constantly be taking skins on and off in low-vertical New Brunswick hills and "mountains".
To completely remove wax I use this process:
- heat and scrape
- then use a wax remover (I use goo-gone)
It has been years since I competely stripped the base of one of my Nordic touring skis.
The skin on top of "hard" grip waxes or glide waxes will not negatively affect the skin adhesive.
You want a base prep (grip or glide wax) that you can apply the skin directly on top of.
(I generally use a very hard(cold) grip wax as my base layer.)
(Many use glide wax as their base layer.)
(I have a thread in the Wiki section of the site on my approach to waxing my backcountry Nordic touring skis.)
Grip/kick wax does not bond well to glide wax.
You could choose not to apply a base wax to the kicker skin section- applying kickwax of the day only to that section.
I personally prefer to use very hard grip wax on the entire base- this preference is both a product of the terrain and snow I ski on as well as the typical mid-winter temperatures.
For example- I find that there is an absolute sweet spot where Swix Polar both grips and glides well ~ -15C to -25C where I don't need to apply any kick wax at all! In my midwinter I can often get week-or-two stretches with excellent kick, climbing traction and glide with a Polar base alone! (I had about 12 days of these conditions earlier in February.)
I avoid soft kick waxes and the skin. If I move to a soft kick wax or klister then I scrape it off before putting on the skin.
I always test the performance of the kicker skin before moving to a soft kick wax or klister.
In my shoulder season skiing- late fall/early spring- I often move to soft wax and/or klister alone and/or waxless scaled skis- that way I don't have to constantly be taking skins on and off in low-vertical New Brunswick hills and "mountains".
To completely remove wax I use this process:
- heat and scrape
- then use a wax remover (I use goo-gone)
It has been years since I competely stripped the base of one of my Nordic touring skis.
Cross-country AND down-hill skiing in the backcountry.
Unashamed to be a "cross-country type" and love skiing down-hill.
Unashamed to be a "cross-country type" and love skiing down-hill.
- rickjamesbrown
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2021 2:26 pm
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
Great info! Thanks!
One more: the intelligrip skins - how many times can you typically apply and remove them before the glue doesn't work anymore?
One more: the intelligrip skins - how many times can you typically apply and remove them before the glue doesn't work anymore?
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
I have the m50's with the recessed integrated skins and the glide is fantastic. Like a waxed ski. I imagine the recessed nature of that setup is the reason why. Now the Madshus transition skin has a completely recessed leading edge and the Fischer Easy Skin is slightly recessed and also tapered, but they both sit on top of the base. Well this question may deserve another thread, how is the glide on these new setups compared to a fully recessed skin?
Also, RJB, the great thing about the ski you just bought is to be able to ski it as a waxed ski!
Also, RJB, the great thing about the ski you just bought is to be able to ski it as a waxed ski!
- rickjamesbrown
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2021 2:26 pm
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
So, I just got these in the mail, and aside from the abysmal packaging, I noticed on one of the skis, it seems the binding screw was drilled in too deep. There's definitely a noticeable outdent on the bottom of one of the skis. Should I even try backing the screw out a little? Or is this basically unrepairable? I attached a photo for reference. If you can feel a bump at all, is that too much?
- bgregoire
- Posts: 1467
- Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:31 am
- Ski style: Nordic backcountry touring with lots of turns
- Favorite Skis: Fisher E99 & Boundless (98), Åsnes Ingstad, K2 Wayback 88
- Favorite boots: Crispi Sydpolen, Alico Teletour & Alfa Polar
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
Should be an easy "fix" if you back it out, file it down a little and screw it back in with gorilla glue.
I live for the Telemark arc....The feeeeeeel.....I ski miles to get to a place where there is guaranteed snow to do the deal....TM
- rickjamesbrown
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2021 2:26 pm
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
Yeah I was wondering if that would work. It's just that they're brand new and I'm trying to decide if I should just get them replaced or not. It seems like the screw going in too far would cause significant structural damage. It would be another thing if they were just free.
Re: Madshus Panorama M62 length recommendations
RJB that's too bad, I'm not sure I would accept that. My M62's showed up today, unmounted. They look good, although the top sheet is uninspiring. The Eons looked way better in my opinion. I'll take them in to get mounted tomorrow. Was going with Viole with cables but did see where some here preferred the Super Telemark Rotte's.
Well I will say there is a little tip rocker as illustrated here, and this ski definitely has a single camber at best. I have never skied a ski like this except it reminds me of my Rossi alpine skis with the camber and width. But, damn, it seems big. My alpine skus are 180cm and these are 195. I guess my USGI'S at 200cm are similar, but the alpine comparison sticks with me because of the camber. I'm thinking in some snow with a good wax job, I might experience something quite different!
Well I will say there is a little tip rocker as illustrated here, and this ski definitely has a single camber at best. I have never skied a ski like this except it reminds me of my Rossi alpine skis with the camber and width. But, damn, it seems big. My alpine skus are 180cm and these are 195. I guess my USGI'S at 200cm are similar, but the alpine comparison sticks with me because of the camber. I'm thinking in some snow with a good wax job, I might experience something quite different!