This is the World Famous TelemarkTalk / TelemarkTips / Telemark Francais Forum, by far the most dynamic telemark and backcountry skiing discussion board on the world wide web since 1998. East, West, North, South, Canada, US or Europe, Backcountry or not.
This is the World Famous TelemarkTalk / TelemarkTips / Telemark Francais Forum, by far the most dynamic telemark and backcountry skiing discussion board on the world wide web since 1998. East, West, North, South, Canada, US or Europe, Backcountry or not.
for a "crust-buster" common advice usually points to the Combat NATO.
and maybe an even better cruster, is the NATO's older "relative",
the USGI... (but shipping is a barrier to obtaining it from the Surplus store in Harrisburg, PA)
Another note on this topic- The term "kick" wax is a modern term- The use of "grip" waxing is much older By using grip wax as my base ( or in VERY cold conditions almost none at all) I do not need much "kick" wax on my low-cambered deep snow and/or steep terrain touring skis. I do use "kick" wax on...
one thing to add: I've found that if you are really "working" to ascend a "climb",
you can successfully achieve a steeper slope, than if just leisurely making your way up.
Maintaining a base-level of positive inertia, really goes a long way...
How is the solid wax to work with? How do you apply it? I literally just rub it on, and that's it - no corking. For me, the wax placed in this area is simply to prevent snow from sticking. The Fischer Crown base has all the "grip" I would ever need. No reason to try and enhance it with grip/kick wa...
I think the only advantage of a "jig", is to determine the center of the ski *base*, and translate that mark to the top of the ski. (because you want to center a binding at the mid-line of the base, and *not* the top of the ski, because those two geometries aren't necessarily consistent with eachoth...