Fischer GTS Telemark delamination

[Brynski]

Hi all,

First post for me. Thanks for all the info and entertainment so far.

I've just got hold of a stunning pair of Fischer Telemark GTS, still in their wrapper. I'd like to mount then up with the xplore, and use them on the easier runs at my local resorts, such as The Lecht and Cairngorm.

Both the skis have large areas where the edge has come away from the sidewall, leaving a narrow gap, mainly towards the centre of the ski. Flexing the ski and looking along the edge doesn't reveal any obvious imbalance in the flex characteristics. I am however concerned that moisture will be sucked into the wood core of the ski, probably ruining it rather quickly. If this is going to be the case then I think I'd rather stick them on the wall without ever drilling them, as they really are rather lovely.

Does anyone have any experience of dealing with such an issue? Is there a remedy like drawing wax into the gap to seal it? Is the ski simply flawed in its construction, and any gaps currently there will only get bigger? The edge appears to be made of two separate layers. I presume the section that contacts the snow is steel, and the thinner layer behind is some sort of alloy. I think they've spent the last few decades stored in a slightly damp shed, so the wood core may have swelled and blown things apart. Will attempt to attach a couple of pics.

[Stephen]

@Brynski, your thought about moisture and swelling seems like a possible explanation.
If it was me, I think I would try something fairly simple like squeezing polyurethane glue in the gap.
If you cared about cosmetics, you could tape off the white sidewall first.
Let it cure and trim off any excess with a single edge razor, or sharp knife.
Refill any remaining gaps, and give them a go.

Not too much to lose by trying.

[fgd135]

That is really a very old ski, regardless of the new appearance. Given the fact it has delammed already, I'd be concerned about further delam of the skis once in use.
Repair it as mentioned, and keep a close eye on it so you're not walking out 5 or 6 miles if it blows apart. Certainly carry a repair kit.

[phoenix]

I'm thinking along the lines of some good two part epoxy, maybe warmed a but so it's kind of runny; work it crefully into the gap, then lay a flat piece of wood or some such thing (about the size of a ruler) along the sidewall with the issue... clamps, with another sidewall protector on the other sidewall so the clamp doesn't directly pressure it.

[motel 1.5]

I think you can save these! I have a pair of Fischer E-99’s that had the same problem. I had great luck with West Systems 105 epoxy and a syringe.

Put the skis edge up in a vise and slowly move along the edge while dispensing epoxy; a syringe with a small enough tip will nest in the groove next to the edge making application pretty easy. There’s no need to try to inject the epoxy, just lay it down on the gap and capillary action will draw the epoxy into the gap. Immediately go back over your work a few times until a meniscus of epoxy forms in the gap. Once cured there will be a very small amount to clean up and will come off with a quick side edge filing. It’ll take you two days to this but I think it’s is definitely worth the extra effort over a faster curing adhesive.

This technique works because the 105 epoxy is so thin that it can wick down into the small gap. Don’t heat it up the epoxy as it’ll cure quicker than you want and is thin enough already.

I’m going on year two after the repair and I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how well it’s worked. So far it’s held up and you could never tell that it was repaired. I’ll add that they’re rock skis for me so if they catastrophically delam, walking out isn’t a huge hardship. I would definitely test them out a bunch inbounds before taking them into the backcountry. Good luck!

[Stephen]

Oh, man.
I was originally thinking the epoxy and syringe too, but I usually go overboard on solution and details, so just went with quick and easy (polyurethane glue).
But definitely, the epoxy and syringe would be the ideal solution.

Thing is, if you don’t have the epoxy already, you have to go out and buy $70 - $90 worth of West System supplies to do that — I think the smallest size is 1 qt.
Might be able to find smaller quantities in some other brand.
Maybe something like this for $38 + shipping and the syringes.
https://www.totalboat.com/products/pene ... _KEALw_wcB

[wabene]

This is a brand I've had good luck with restoring a canoe. This particular version of their products would be good for your repair. For another 9 bucks they have a syringe. Stephen's suggestion is a little cheaper. You could contact MAS directly. They have a repair kit for 25 bucks that comes with a medium viscosity resin and they might swap in their low viscosity resin.

https://masepoxies.com/product/penetrat ... ner-sealer

[Brynski]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. It's good to hear that some skis with similar defects have been saved previously by others. The injection of a thin epoxy sounds pretty sensible to me. Obviously I don't want to go too crazy on acquiring expensive materials to fix these old skis, but I'd still like to be able to ski them and have the old school tele experience. Syringes with narrow pointy tips sound like they might be key. I don't plan on ever being far from civilization on these skis, but I think they could be fun to try on our Scottish pistes, which are usually only suitable for rock skis. Now I just need to find a UK based supplier. Cheers,

Rob

[motel 1.5]

I’d definitely check out some marine shops if you’re near the coast, they should have something for you. I agree that the epoxy brand doesn’t matter much at all for this application, as long as it’s a laminating resin you’ll be golden. I just happen to have gallons of West Systems on hand because I repair composite canoes.

[TallGrass]

I've just got hold of a stunning pair of Fischer Telemark GTS, still in their wrapper. ... I think they've spent the last few decades stored in a slightly damp shed, so the wood core may have swelled and blown things apart. Will attempt to attach a couple of pics.

How much did they cost you?

Before any glue work, I would make sure they're totally dried out so you don't trap moisture then re-freeze it. I'd have them dry for a week in a warm low humidity environment such as near a heating unit or electric furnace room/closet.

Hardman's Double Bubble Orange (#7) is oft recommended for laminations. Scroll down and look at the rest of the types of epoxy.
https://www.perigeedirect.com/products/ ... ulti-packs