Made my own skis…mounting advice?

[Krummholz]

@Jlars13
Template if you need one, double check that your printed template matches the holes in your binding. The NNN-BC is a link to download.

https://telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php? ... 428#p54116

[fisheater]

There were great points made about how to install bindings. I would only add to those points is that I have used electrical tape to create a shoulder on my drill bits for mounts for over 30 years. I have never had an issue, however I use the tape as a visual aid and do not use it as a positive stop. If you use tape as a positive stop, you will need a P-Tex stick.
As to location of pin line, traditional XC mounting is pins or bar on balance point. For a downhill oriented ski pins on chord center was the go to. I never did a ball of foot on center of running surface mount, because I just would go boot center mark, on the ski’s boot center mount. I think BoF on CoRS would probably give you best performance. I think you should follow @Inspiredcapers advice go to the Telewiki section. Part 1 How to Mount Telemark Bindings by Johnny, the very first post has all the information you really need.
I would mark balance point, chord center, a pin line for BoF on CoRS on the ski. I would see what makes the most sense. That being said I have a ski, I decided to mount at BP. I’ve skied it for several years, but now I am moving it forward 2.5 - 3 cm to boot center on boot center mark. It will be quicker edge to edge, I will see how that affects XC performance. It is a touring for turns ski.

[Maxwellian]

Nice! I’ve only mounted a handful of bindings, but I’ve got a few decades of woodworking experience to lend some pointers.

You totally don’t need a jig, they just expedite and foolproof things when time is money. I would spend a few dollars on a drill block and stop collars if you don’t have any. If you use a paper jig, drill first with a brad point bit, and you won’t have issues with wandering. Bottom out the hole if necessary with a less pointy bit.

Whatever wood you used is going to be much firmer than what they use as cores in modern skis. As Long as your screws aren’t super short I wouldn’t worry about them pulling out. A little waterproof wood glue in each hole will make sure they don’t loosen up, and give a boost in strength.

[Inspiredcapers]

Has anyone here had success using something like this…
https://a.co/d/aS0C6hF
…for mounting bindings? I’ve had a couple of holes ending up off-center despite careful measuring.

[Maxwellian]

Has anyone here had success using something like this…
https://a.co/d/aS0C6hF
…for mounting bindings? I’ve had a couple of holes ending up off-center despite careful measuring.

I’ve used them on hinges and stuff, they’re okay if you’re careful on countersunk hardware. They work on mortised spots that aren’t flat. Never super precise though.

I think on flat surface like a ski, you’re better off center punching or using a brad point. You can use a clamped drill block, line it up with the bit in the divot/brad point stuck into the mark, then clamp.

[Jlars13]

As far as mounting point (pin line), that's up to you, and how you plan to use the ski. Seems to me it'll be for general touring, in which case pin line on balance point is, and has long been, the standard. Pin line on chord center was standard for a long time, until the advent of rocker, heavier and more active gear, etc., for telemark mounts. The definition of "telemark" varies wildly these days, I'm using it in the downhill oriented sense; I wouldn't call xcd as telemark, though the turn is one of the techniques involved.

For alignment etc, in addition to some good advice already given:
1)Find and mark your centerline.
2)Determine where you want your pin line.
3)Place the binding on the ski, and mark the fron hole on your center line.
4)Drill that, and lightly screw the binding on the ski using just the front screw loosely enough to pivot the binding (do not glue that front screw yet).
5) Place the appropriate boot in the binding, and align/center the heel on the ski. Mark the center position of the heel on your centerline.
6) Carefully (!) remove the boot, being sure to not change the binding's position.
7) Mark where the two rear screw holes are in this proper alignment.
8) Remove the binding, drill the rear holes, and glue & screw to complete the mount.
9) Give the glue it's proper drying time, indoors, before skiing.

PS: Forgot to mention I was assuming a 3 pin binding, given that I find wooden skis and NNN bindings to be an aesthetic and tradition mismatch, but that's just me. The process would remain the same for NNN though. Wood bases on those boards? Know how to pine tar 'em?

Thank you! This is extremely helpful. Yeah, I agree with the aesthetic/tradition clash, I’ve been debating throwing some old 75mm bindings on there that I have, but the only boot I have in 3-pin is an old pair of garmont veloce boots I got very used that are missing their original liners and therefore have no power strap and 0 support without voile-strapping them at the top of the cuff, which felt like a lot of overkill for these skis, but I’m also very open to being wrong. With the NNNBC I could ski these in my alpina Alaskas, which felt like a better match.
And yes, bases are wood, whole skis have been treated with pine tar, including bases.

On the next skis, I’m considering going for traditional wicker bindings.

[Jlars13]

Impressive, something I very much want to try.

Have you checked Telewiki on this forum? Theres a couple of articles about selecting mount location, a couple that are NNNBC specific, and and article with templates.

Will check this out, thanks!

[Jlars13]

Nice! I’ve only mounted a handful of bindings, but I’ve got a few decades of woodworking experience to lend some pointers.

You totally don’t need a jig, they just expedite and foolproof things when time is money. I would spend a few dollars on a drill block and stop collars if you don’t have any. If you use a paper jig, drill first with a brad point bit, and you won’t have issues with wandering. Bottom out the hole if necessary with a less pointy bit.

Whatever wood you used is going to be much firmer than what they use as cores in modern skis. As Long as your screws aren’t super short I wouldn’t worry about them pulling out. A little waterproof wood glue in each hole will make sure they don’t loosen up, and give a boost in strength.

Thanks! Would love to pick your brain on some woodworking issues I’ve had…. As you can see I went a little too thin with my hand plane on the first ski just before the shovel and had to try to match the second one to it. Any tips on keeping my planing smooth and even, and not getting carried away and removing too much material?

These are poplar, the next couple pairs will be, much more appropriately, quarter-sawn ash. I tried to make a pair out of Doug Fir a few weeks ago, which were pretty much doomed from the start just based on the wood choice. Not optimal for steam bending, especially with my very janky diy setup.