Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

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jyw5
Posts: 302
Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:52 am

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by jyw5 » Thu Oct 21, 2021 6:04 pm

:cry: .
FourthCoast wrote:
Thu Oct 21, 2021 4:01 pm
I guess I was not done buying stuff. I got a pair of Nylon X-Skins for my MR skis. I think I will use these when the snow is warm and grip wax is difficult or impossible to use.

I know nylon absorbs water. I imagine getting the skins wet and then having them freeze would probably cause a number of problems.

Should I wax these new skins now, or wait until after I have used them some? I am also not sure if I should use glide wax, polar or maybe even the waterproofing wax I used on my boots.

Any suggestions?
I use this wax on all of my skins. from kickers to full skins. mohair, mixed, nylon. I use a warm iron. works awesome. mohair has excellent glide and works best in cold/dry weather. nylon has great grip and works well on wet snow ad icy conditions. I havent had much problems. xskins don't stick well sometimes especially in sugar wet snow or very deep light dry/cold snow... other skin brands have better adhesion (if using tip loop full length straight skins like Contour or Colltex; I have adhesion problems with Pomoca but like their glide properties the best)




https://www.nextadventure.net/pomoca-bi ... 76202.html

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FourthCoast
Posts: 151
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:55 pm
Ski style: poser

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by FourthCoast » Fri Nov 05, 2021 3:06 pm

Woodserson wrote:
Thu Oct 21, 2021 4:07 pm

Get some mohairs while you're at it. Seriously
Mohair, OK. Right or wrong I ordered 320cm of this stuff in the 60mm width:

https://skimo.co/ski-trab-race-roll

I figure something narrower than the ski will be easier to take on and off, but still grip enough. I am planning on cutting this in half and sewing on my own tip loop attachment with stuff I have around the house already.

Edit: I like how this person thinks: http://mountainlessons.com/gear/d-y-ski ... ttachments



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Nick BC
Posts: 208
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:04 pm
Location: Vancouver, BC
Ski style: Free heel Resort/Backcountry
Favorite Skis: Voile Vector BC,Trab Altavia and G3 Stinger XCD
Favorite boots: Scarpa TX and T3
Occupation: Retired Community Planner

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by Nick BC » Fri Nov 05, 2021 7:01 pm

FourthCoast wrote:
Fri Nov 05, 2021 3:06 pm
Woodserson wrote:
Thu Oct 21, 2021 4:07 pm

Get some mohairs while you're at it. Seriously
Mohair, OK. Right or wrong I ordered 320cm of this stuff in the 60mm width:

https://skimo.co/ski-trab-race-roll

I figure something narrower than the ski will be easier to take on and off, but still grip enough. I am planning on cutting this in half and sewing on my own tip loop attachment with stuff I have around the house already.

Edit: I like how this person thinks: http://mountainlessons.com/gear/d-y-ski ... ttachments

I’ve done the same thing. I purchased enough Trab race roll in the 95mm width from SkiUphill in Canmore, cut it in half to provide a mini skin. The cut skins extend to the back of the boot utilizing a tip loop I already had in my parts bin. They’ll be used on a pair of Trab Altavia and Hagan Ride 75. I’m looking forward to skiing them once we have enough snow. I’m assuming they’ll be faster than my BD kickers.



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FourthCoast
Posts: 151
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:55 pm
Ski style: poser

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by FourthCoast » Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:19 am

I got my mohair skin roll this week. I have been surprised how many little fibers come off the skins, both nylon and mohair, handling them inside the house.

This seems like good reason to use mohair instead of nylon. I expect leaving behind microscopic bits of goat hair is less damaging to the environment than strands of nylon.



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Woodserson
Posts: 2540
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:25 am
Location: New Hampshire
Ski style: Bumps, trees, steeps and long woodsy XC tours
Favorite Skis: DH: Voile V6, Altai KOMs, XCD: Asnes FT62, XC: Nansen, E99, Bonna 1800
Favorite boots: T2Eco, T4, Rossignol BCX10
Occupation: Retro Rager-grouch. Flailmeister. E99 Nerd

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by Woodserson » Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:54 pm

@FourthCoast What length screws did you end up ordering to make the NNN-BC inserts work? I am thinking of inserting a couple of XC skis I don't use often so I don't burn up bindings. You championed and led the way, what are your thoughts?

I guess I am looking at the three different positions-- nose, 2 primary, and the heels.



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FourthCoast
Posts: 151
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:55 pm
Ski style: poser

Re: Complete skiing. Near perfect continuity between flats, uphills and downhills.

Post by FourthCoast » Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:45 am

Woodserson wrote:
Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:54 pm
@FourthCoast What length screws did you end up ordering to make the NNN-BC inserts work? I am thinking of inserting a couple of XC skis I don't use often so I don't burn up bindings. You championed and led the way, what are your thoughts?

I guess I am looking at the three different positions-- nose, 2 primary, and the heels.
Hi Woods,

For each binding I used:

Nose:
1x 10mm low head screw

Primary:
2x 20mm flat head screws

Heels:
2x 10mm flat head screws


I actually ended up keeping the 'generic' heel piece mounted on the ski and removing the sliding heel piece from the NNN BC binding. This is how Stephen had the older NNN BC binding setup when I bought the skis and it allows me to change between the Voile 'HD Mountaineer 3-Pin Telemark Binding' and the NNN BCs with one less screw swap. But I did try bolting the NNN BC heel piece to an insert using the 10mm flat head just to see if it would work. I think it should be fine.

There are a few things I would like to mention.

1. The mechanical connection on the two 'primary' screws is definitely different with the binding freedom screws compared to the stock NNN BC screws. The body of the Binding Freedom screw is much narrower. I have not been able to form a clear idea of what this means, but it is definitely different. I think, maybe, the binding/ski assembly might be weaker when resisting a twisting motion. I am OK with this. If I end up in a situation where the ski is putting that much torque on my boot then I would rather have the binding screws shear off before my ligaments start to tear.

2. The heads of the two primary Binding Freedom screws bite into the dog bone, but I don't see how that could cause an issue. In fact I think this bite may make Vibra-Tite unnecessary so I am going to try them without any locking compound on the thread.

3. For the two heel screws I had to run one of the stock screws through the plastic to enlarge the hole. I could not get the binding freedom screws to 'start' threading without making the hole in the plastic a little bigger.



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