Resurrecting an old thread to address an issue that came up elsewhere. Not enough written on this subject. Did a search, came up with this thread. Not much more than that… surprising given that base and side angles are very important things for metal edged skis.
Tognar link has great info… but no pics. People like pics. Makes it easier to visualize what’s going on.
First, quick summation of the basics. Two angles… the base angle (light green) and the side angle (dark green).
A zero degree
base angle is how many, but not all, skis come from the factory. Some have a small amount of base angle… not very much though. Advanced recreational downhill skiers usually like a degree or two…. the steel edge remains free(er) of the compressed surface when travelling flat and straight, which makes the ski faster. Competitive skiers go for several degrees of base angle.
New skis come from the factory with 1-2 degrees of
side angle… normally refereed to as 89 or 88 degrees of side angle. This gives good edge hold for most recreational conditions. Those wanting more hold can reduce the angle to 87 or 86. Not much to be gained past that unless you’re on the WC tour… then you don’t have to worry about it. That’s the tech’s job. Even then, it’s unusual to see base angles of more than 4/less than 86 degrees used unless the sport is GS.
Lots written about base and side angles. It’s a complete subject in itself. Not going to repeat all that because it’s mostly for competition, high performance skiing at the professional level.
Changing the base angle requires experience and specialized tools. It’s easy to screw up by nipping into the ptex beside the steel edge. Best leave that to the shop.
Side angle is easy to change… but realistically, that change can only go one way… from 89 or 90 to 88, 87, 86 degrees. The great thing is that the edge sticks out pretty far from the edge, so it’s much easier to “work”. All you need is an 8” “flat fine single cut file”** and one of these:
This is a Toko branded one. Swix sell them under their trade name too. Different colors, but all are marked with the angle to which they’re set.
These are the best guides because they are fixed. They’re a precision instrument, which is why they cost ~$50. The variable angle adjustable guides ($60 and up) aren’t as precise. Nor are they as durable. Many require specially sized files and stones, which makes them more expensive in the long run. Imho, side angle is kind of a set-it-once kind of deal for the recreational skier. Not a hard and fast rule, but a general one that makes like simpler.
This is how the file and angle guides work:
A spring clamp holds the file to the guide (a Bessey 1” spring clamp is an ideal size and retails for around $2).
https://www.bessey.de/en-us/bessey-tool ... -clamps-xm
The flat face of the guide follows the base of the ski. The file is smoothly drawn, from front to back, across the side edge… one direction only… until the correct angle is achieved. They best way to do this is by first coloring the side edge with a Sharpie marker (as mentioned by
@Montana St Alum). When all traces of the marker are gone, the edge has been filed.
Lots of tricks and tips… these can be found in online videos. Stuff like using chalk, de tuning the tips and tails with a gummy stone, de burring the base edge, etc.
Recreational skiers find it daunting to set the base angle for the first time. It’s actually very simple, does wonders for the edge hold of the skis, and is followed up with honing (smoothing) using a diamond stone. A light pass of the file once a year is all that’s normally needed to freshen the edges… practically no material is removed freshening up the angle. It’s mostly deburring at that point. A few passes a season with a diamond stone will keep the edge sharp and highly polished. A polished edge is less prone to rust and pitting too… increases the life and enjoyment of the ski.
The whole rig (angle guide, file, diamond stone, gummi stone) costs about $100… about the price of three ski tunes. After that, the tools start paying for themselves. No waiting, obviously.
** Note: Bastard files are too coarse and remove too much material. A double cut file is gentler but leaves a rough edge, which will only need to be polished out later. There’s a whole language around files… American cut, Swiss cut, first pass, second pass etc. Don’t sweat the details too much. It’s not rocket science.