Gluing Delaminating Tips on Thrift Rossi' Waxless Skis

[TallGrass]

I popped into a fav' mountain town thrift store. Found some ski poles (I've just either had rentals or zip-tied snow baskets to my trekking poles) sans leashes for $8 with rounded (3" dia?) baskets, but they screw on.

Then checking out saw two pair of nordics, one a NNN waxed and a Rossignol waxless with good scales and 3-pin bindings (I already have leather 3-pin lace-up boots). They were $25, then I noticed the tips coming apart a few inches deep, pointed it out, and she dropped it to $15. I figure worst case I can glue and run a bolt through the tips.

Plan is to source some
Hardman Double Bubble Orange Toughened Epoxy, HPS (High Peel Strength)
clean, epoxy, clamp, scrape, and add a small screw/bolt at each tip for insurance.

I'll do a more thorough inspection and try to post photos later, such as if the tails are starting to go, yet figure I'll get my fun-$$ out of them regardless.

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?

They also had some Excel Nova Nordic poles that felt like carbon fiber for $25, but they were short for me at 135cm.

[fisheater]

Sounds like an excellent plan, although I am not familiar with that particular epoxy. Good luck and happy trails.

[TallGrass]

Overview: https://www.theepoxysource.com/double-bubble.htm
Orange #04007 https://www.theepoxysource.com/epoxy.htm#04007

Description: A flexible, tough and durable vibration resistant Hardman Epoxy adhesive. High peel and shear strengths. Bonds to polystyrene, ABS nylon, metal, wood, masonry and rubber.
Typical Uses: For repair of sports equipment, marine, aircraft, auto, truck and tractor parts. Excellent adhesive for grinding wheel hubs, door
and window gaskets.

No bananas, so quarter (U.S.) for scale.

[TallGrass]

More pics.

[TallGrass]

And the poles I got (for alpine downhill and winter hikes), some Austrian aluminum c/o Holmenkol. The baskets spin and slide up/down a few mm and are not screw-ons, so not sure about how to remove those yet.

[fisheater]

Looks like you should have some fun on those skis. Epoxy them, let them cure, and go out and slide on snow! We never really grow up!

[GrimSurfer]

Those will be a pain to clamp but the glue will do the trick.

PS. I understand you’re on the road. IDK if the skis are marked, but what I’ve been able to find online suggests a 58/49/51mm profile.

[JohnSKepler]

I don't know your skill level with wood so I'm going to be more detailed than you may need. Apologies for that. Also, this kind of post will turn up on searches that others will make so a more thorough explanation is good for the aether.

Someone may have tried to glue them before, and there may be residual glue on there from the original process, so I'd fold a piece of sand paper in half and slide it between the laminations. Hold the separation together and work the sandpaper enough to get some dust. (You'll probably be able to tell the difference between glue dust and wood dust.) I can't see this to know but, I think I'd probably start with some 100 grit to remove glue and dirt, then go back with some 80 grit. Yes, 80. Some deeper cuts will give your glue something to adhere to and cut through any remaining glue or epoxy. Blow it out with some compressed air, if you have access, or by blowing hard on it, which will be better than nothing. You might dampen a paper towel or piece of cloth (damp, not wet!) and slide it in there to pick up any remaining dust and debris. If you do this, slide a coin into the separation to keep it open and let it dry indoors for a day.

If the laminations are wood, I might use some Titebond III, instead of epoxy. The wood glue will give you a stronger bond. Anything other than wood; use a high quality 24-hour setting epoxy. Not quick set.

For clamping, it's likely you'll be clamping a curved surface with a flat clamp. And, I don't know what kind of clamps you're using. You'll definitely want to use a sponge or some foam rubber between the clamp and the curve. I'd recommend about two inch-thick foam rubber sheet on each side of the ski backed with a piece of 1/4" plywood. Clamp it down evenly, compressing the foam rubber to about an inch or less. That ought to give you pressure across the curved surface with no gaps. It won't be completely even pressure but you don't need that. Clamping too tightly is a very common mistake. It isn't the clamping force that bonds the materials, it is the glue/epoxy. The clamping is just there to hold them together. Overtightening the clamps, besides not being necessary, will just squeeze out too much glue.

When you remove the clamps I'd sand down the edges to get them smooth and paint them with a fine brush and a quality enamel to seal them. Definitely do this if you use the Titebond. Don't use latex, it'll just peel off. Alternately, you can coat them with an epoxy that may add a bit of protection. But, if they are just rock skis, skip the painting and go try them out!

Let us know how it all comes out.
-John

[TallGrass]

I don't know your skill level with wood so I'm going to be more detailed than you may need. Apologies for that. Also, this kind of post will turn up on searches that others will make so a more thorough explanation is good for the aether.

Thanks. We're along the same lines, and also it's an opportunity to learn. Can't break what's broke!

I was going to use wet/dry sandpaper as the plastic holds up better than paper, and not fold it in the crack so as to get in deeper, though might for the roomier areas. I'll look at titebond, but more importantly what materials the layers are. I've used an assortment of glues and there's a reason there are so many, what works for tire inner tubes doesn't for wood, and vice versa. HDPE, teflon-esque stuff, and mixed media (e.g. wood-to-rubber) is tricky, and sometimes you have to use intermediaries just like chrome won't stick to some materials so you have to plate it with other things first.

Cleaning media will hinge on what the materials are. Water is cheap and plentiful, but can lead to flash rust. Brake cleaner works great on metals but is harsh to so much else. Alcohol is safe on a lot of things. Porous materials take longer to dry. Prep is key for good adhesion.

Yep, wood to distribute the force across, and something softer to press out little bubbles evenly for full contact. Put some wax paper, plastic, or low-tack tape to keep it off top/bottom sheets. Smooth and seal with appropriate materials.

And if it holds initially, but not up to continued use, I may just run a couple small counter sunk (flush) screws and nuts through. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the splitting is due to a small crack letting water in which froze, expanded, melted, repeat.

But yeah, they were $28 and got them for $15+tax so it will be hard not to get money's worth out of it as the bindings alone look ok.

[JohnSKepler]

And if it holds initially, but not up to continued use, I may just run a couple small counter sunk (flush) screws and nuts through. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the splitting is due to a small crack letting water in which froze, expanded, melted, repeat.

But yeah, they were $28 and got them for $15+tax so it will be hard not to get money's worth out of it as the bindings alone look ok.

Some pop rivets would be fun and look very steam punk. Some poles made from 3/4" galvanized water pipe along with an army helmet and motorcycle goggles would complete the look!