Mukluks, mukluks, muks...
Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2022 3:15 pm
There's something to be said for an inexpensive boot that works well in very cold weather and in the backcountry -- mukluks. They're light, pack-able enough, easy to take apart to dry, and work better for me than a lot of "winter boots". They also eliminate the need for gaiters, though ski pants can be worn under or over to suit your taste.
Mukluks are NOT a "wet" snow boot and thrive in +20F and colder. So do NOT confuse Mukluks with Muck Boots with full rubber to wade in a foot of water.
Here's my U.S. military N-1B Mukluks beaters after several winter summits. You can often find them at surplus stores and ebay for under $50. I'm sure others here can add info and comment on other versions such as from Canada.
A FULL set should include:
- outer shell (green cotton duck with rubber outsole
- two (2) grey felt insoles per boot
- one white wool bootie per boot
- verify before you buy
--> example of set without booties
Good additions:
- Second wool bootie, as a size 10/11 foot I can fit a S(mall) bootie in a M(edium) one.
- "Frost plug", basically a mesh insole that goes under the felt ones to trap moisture to keep frost from wicking up through the insoles. Canadian versions have this, though I've yet to try them and wondered how Type I "jungle boot" mesh insoles would hold up.
- Vapor barrier liner or oven bags, on a long day (think 12+ hour hike) they can dampen from sweat, so a bag over the foot or over a thin socks keeps the booties dry and insulating. ALSO, without them sweat vapor eventually condenses inside the sole below the insoles and at the shell which can freeze stiff making it hard to adjust laces over the forefoot.
Repair:
The outer cotton isn't the most robust scraping against talus, but even with a four-inch slice and frosted layer on the bootie underneath my feet were warmth. My approach was to use Shoe Goo, scissors, pen, and scrap canvas from a bag to apply a patch on both the outside and inside for more serious holes/tears, which also serves to bulletproof the areas "proven" to need it most. I have another pair of "new" outers for when that time comes.
Care:
Unlike one-piece boots, muks are designed and NEED to be taken apart and dried. If you just toss them at the door damp from a hike like other footwear, I don't foresee good things. The flip side is they dry out faster than boots with non-removable liners.
My basic system not including socks: vapor barriers (oven bags), two booties, two insoles, outer shell.
Felt insoles start out around 3/8" thick each. They pound down after several long days and winter summits
Nesting a S inside a M "100% wool" bootie. I sharpied a L and R to keep from mixing the four up.
Tread patterns vary. Inside of the rubber outsole is canvas. Canadian military adds "frost plugs"
Medium insoles are about 11" long (didn't have a ruler handy).
Mukluks are NOT a "wet" snow boot and thrive in +20F and colder. So do NOT confuse Mukluks with Muck Boots with full rubber to wade in a foot of water.
Here's my U.S. military N-1B Mukluks beaters after several winter summits. You can often find them at surplus stores and ebay for under $50. I'm sure others here can add info and comment on other versions such as from Canada.
A FULL set should include:
- outer shell (green cotton duck with rubber outsole
- two (2) grey felt insoles per boot
- one white wool bootie per boot
- verify before you buy
--> example of set without booties
Good additions:
- Second wool bootie, as a size 10/11 foot I can fit a S(mall) bootie in a M(edium) one.
- "Frost plug", basically a mesh insole that goes under the felt ones to trap moisture to keep frost from wicking up through the insoles. Canadian versions have this, though I've yet to try them and wondered how Type I "jungle boot" mesh insoles would hold up.
- Vapor barrier liner or oven bags, on a long day (think 12+ hour hike) they can dampen from sweat, so a bag over the foot or over a thin socks keeps the booties dry and insulating. ALSO, without them sweat vapor eventually condenses inside the sole below the insoles and at the shell which can freeze stiff making it hard to adjust laces over the forefoot.
Repair:
The outer cotton isn't the most robust scraping against talus, but even with a four-inch slice and frosted layer on the bootie underneath my feet were warmth. My approach was to use Shoe Goo, scissors, pen, and scrap canvas from a bag to apply a patch on both the outside and inside for more serious holes/tears, which also serves to bulletproof the areas "proven" to need it most. I have another pair of "new" outers for when that time comes.
Care:
Unlike one-piece boots, muks are designed and NEED to be taken apart and dried. If you just toss them at the door damp from a hike like other footwear, I don't foresee good things. The flip side is they dry out faster than boots with non-removable liners.
My basic system not including socks: vapor barriers (oven bags), two booties, two insoles, outer shell.
Felt insoles start out around 3/8" thick each. They pound down after several long days and winter summits
Nesting a S inside a M "100% wool" bootie. I sharpied a L and R to keep from mixing the four up.
Tread patterns vary. Inside of the rubber outsole is canvas. Canadian military adds "frost plugs"
Medium insoles are about 11" long (didn't have a ruler handy).