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Breaking this topic off from:

Capercaillie wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 17, 2022 3:04 pm

I love junky old skis off of classifieds, but I have had bad experiences P-texing them. Don't P-tex if you can avoid it. Melted-in P-tex does not hold glide wax well.

https://telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php? ... =10#p53306


Here's the patient, a powder ski (alpine). Nothing as serious as this (thread).
Decent core shot exposing the keys of the metal edge. Coil of metal grip (to bind both to the metal and ptex) and ptex candles (bind to metal grip and to hold wax). This is going to be a "side of the road" repair with minimal tools versus what a $hop could do. full size image
Repair with tools available (not at home) using nail clippers file and SAKnife to scrape surfaces "clean", metal grip applied using a pointed soldering iron for a base layer to cover the metal, then iron again to melt in ptex versus "dripping" it in candle style to avoid fumes. full size image
Viewed from side, just a little proud of the base. full size image
Used a thin metal ruler to scrape ptex down flat working from middle-to-outside (not end-to-end) in small scrapes from different angles, and flush with base-edge, then passes with sandpaper. It was nice to have a flexible metal edge that I could use the edge and undamage base as "rails" to scrape down to by "wagging" the edge at times. All that's left is to do a wax job. If this doesn't hold up or pulls out, I can always repeat the repair in a better fashion, but this gets the skis back in service. I can see a few tiny gaps on the left and might do a small drip-n-scrape there pre-wax.
full size image

Nicely done! Kudos!

Good one, @TallGrass

Not criticizing the repair, and...

I think the p-tex will stick better if dripped in (lit and burning).
But, how you do that matters.
the p-tex will barely smoke if its done right.
See here:


The trick is to hold the p-tex fairly close to the surface -- but watch the video for details.

Yeah, most ski bases are sintered and hold wax well.
Melted p-tex is just straight Polyethylene and wont hold wax nearly as well.

Stephen wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 16, 2023 7:53 pm

the p-tex will barely smoke if its done right.

I've seen that video *thumbs up*, and I didn't say smoke, I said fumes. When you're a guest, it's best not to tick off the host, and I didn't feel like doing this outdoors.

The toughest part, ironically, was tracking down some Metal Grip locally in a ski town. Many ski places either said they didn't know what it was or knew but didn't carry it. I even talked to one place's "tech" who had been only a month or so and didn't know what it was. It seems the common M.O. is to just sell the customer a new set of skis or junk them if rentals.

Finally I ran into a guy at one store in passing who recognized me from a year ago. I explained and he told me in a low voice to go ask for X at Y. I went to Y, found X after waiting for others to conclude biz with him, then he was skeptical at first until some gear head talk. He went over to bench, dyked off a coil and said, "You sound like you know what you're doing.'

Again, will see how it holds up and can drip or re-do if needed later. I have plenty of material left over.

I was just waxing my nordic skis today and found some scratches. nothing crazy but I wanted to do something about them. for the moment I used black graphite base prep wax under the blue top coat. I think nordic skis can be ground/resurfaced, but I'll prob get some p-tex as well

bauerb wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 16, 2023 8:42 pm

I was just waxing my nordic skis today and found some scratches. nothing crazy but I wanted to do something about them. for the moment I used black graphite base prep wax under the blue top coat. I think nordic skis can be ground/resurfaced, but I'll prob get some p-tex as well

How bad was the scratching?

I’ve had great success with metal brushes on sintered bases over the years. Unless the scratch is an actual gouge, they disappear with brushing.

bauerb wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 16, 2023 8:42 pm

I was just waxing my nordic skis today and found some scratches. nothing crazy but I wanted to do something about them. for the moment I used black graphite base prep wax under the blue top coat. I think nordic skis can be ground/resurfaced, but I'll prob get some p-tex as well

For those mulling what to add to the Ski Tackle Box...

Supplies (off the top of my head)
Wax Solvent/Cleaner: something non-polar like isopropyl alcohol, citrus oil, or mineral spirits
Razor Blade: for cutting out any swarf
Wet/Dry Sandpaper: both for roughing the surface to bond to, and to give the patch some "grain" when done
Ptex Sticks: black for most, but they also make clear
Bic Lighter: can hold a flame at altitude unlike problematic "jet" lighters and matches that burn quick
Metal Scraper: a metal ruler from the dollar store in a pinch, but a thicker steel one with the edge ground square for kit
Metal Grip: intermediary layer for any exposed metal is to be covered by Ptex; use with a soldering iron -- don't try to light-n-drip
Soldering Iron with "Fan" Tip: the tip should have a bend like a paint brush being dragged, bonus if it comes to a point
Screwdriver: whatever the soldering iron tip needs to secure it
Wax: to re-infuse the area with glide wax when done
Blue Masking Tape: to tape off any area you don't want Ptex on
Paper: to go with tape
0000 Steel Wool: "quadruple aught" steel wool is very fine and good for polishing metal
Safety Pin or Pick: in case you have to dig something out

ha. those "hairs" that need to be cut off when you get a scratch have an actual name: Swarf ! I noticed a couple of swarfs yesterday. I was afraid to pull on them as I thought the ski might unravel like a sweater. after removing the swarf with a blade, what is the recommended technique for smoothing the edge of the ski to eliminate the serration that happens sometimes around the swarf? I'm talking about non-metal edge nordic skis. I need a firm edge, so not sure if sanding is the thing or build up p-tex then reshape a firm edge?

bauerb wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 17, 2023 10:33 am

ha. those "hairs" that need to be cut off when you get a scratch have an actual name: Swarf ! I noticed a couple of swarfs yesterday. I was afraid to pull on them as I thought the ski might unravel like a sweater. after removing the swarf with a blade, what is the recommended technique for smoothing the edge of the ski to eliminate the serration that happens sometimes around the swarf? I'm talking about non-metal edge nordic skis. I need a firm edge, so not sure if sanding is the thing or build up p-tex then reshape a firm edge?

I’d use sandpaper for that.

I’m a wuss, so I don’t use anything coarser than about 120 grit… and I prefer a wet/dry sandpaper because the backing is tougher. 120 grit or higher might not cut as fast but it’s pretty hard to over sand with it.

Don’t use a machine (too fast a speed will cause the ptex to melt). Moderate pressure only. Follow up with a brass brush in the direction of travel.

After it’s smoothed to your liking, get some hot wax into the structure.