Preparation, maintenance and full-length skins for Åsnes Amundsen Fram Waxless BC

[tohevi]

Hi

I have bought a pair of brand new Åsnes Amundsen Fram Waxless BC (208 cm, 67-57-62 mm) with Rottefella NNN BC Manual binding. I also bought short skins: X-skin 45 mm Mohair and X-skin 45 mm Nylon.

I am in doubt whether it is necessary to prepare the skis before I use them for the first time. They probably got something from the factory, but should I do more myself or are they ready to run out-of-the-box?

I am also in doubt as to how I should treat the skis while I am on a trip in the back country. Should I give them glide wax in front and behind the waxless area and if so what product would you recommend?

In addition to the short skins, I would also like a couple of full-length skins. Which full-length skins can you recommend for Åsnes Amundsen Fram Waxless BC? I think it should be either mohair or mix?

Last but not least, I need tips on whether I should give my skins (both the short and full-length) some wax? For example, to prevent the accumulation of snow. Here, too, it would be nice to have some specific product recommendations.

Thanks in advance
Torben

[spopepro]

I always give my skins a little skin wax, even right out of the box. I use the mountain flow biodegradable product and like it.

I glide wax the smooth surface with a hot iron and crayon some wax (or use a little paste wax) on the patterned base. Where I ski ice and snow will stick to the pattern if it doesn’t have a bit of wax. Depending on your snow, you might consider some of the backcountry waxing tips in the wiki that are non-typical. Which products really depends on your snow type and temp, and if you might be pulling something.

I am not sure I understand the application for full length skins on those skis. You will likely be able to climb anything you could reasonably go down with the wide nylon short skins. If you’re really dedicated to the idea, a blend like the pomoca climb is probably the best.

[Jurassien]

Since you have brand-new Åsnes skis, let Åsnes come to word:

https://asnes-academy.com/en/choose-the ... ry-simply/

If you are new to all this and find the information intimidating, or more bother than you think it's worth, then just scroll down to the paragraph "Instant Glide". The recommended product is made by Colltex, which is a very reputable company, and they maintain that this wax is suitable for waxing skins as well as the glide-zones of the ski. Personally, I would be reluctant to use it on any surface which the skin-glue comes in contact with, in other words it would be OK for the short skins and the exposed surfaces of the ski base, but for full-length skins I would prefer not to use it on the ski-bases.

The "traditional" treatment is to wax the skins with a block of neutral paraffin wax ("neutral" meaning without perfumes or additives) and to prep the glide zones with a hard grip wax, such as Swix Polar or Special Green (my preference, now replaced by V20 Green) and this kind of base-prep would be better if you intend to use full-length skins. However, to get you started, I would just go for the "Instant Glide" option and get out there and enjoy your new kit without overthinking the whole wax business.

With regard to full-length skins, the stiffly cambered Amundsens in combination with full-length 35mm or 38mm mohair skins (treated with paraffin wax) should give you very decent glide. Full-length mohair skins also climb very well - I use them regularly to climb fairly steep slopes. The downside is that they don't last very long. Depending on snow conditions, I usually have to replace mine after a tour of circa 350km, so one has to decide if the good glide is worth the extra cost. To the best of my knowledge, Åsnes and Fischer do not make skins - their skins are made for them by Colltex, who offer skins in 38mm width in mohair, nylon or mixed mohair/nylon. The 100% mohair in 38mm x 210cm are not listed on their website, but I have always been able to order them.

[CwmRaider]

Why full length skins some here ask?
I have been many times in situations, on multi day ski tours, where going up a hill with deep snow is the way to safety, and so retreating back because the hill is too steep to climb for short skins, is just not an option as it is equal to failure.
Get 50 cm or more of powder and a moderate slope and you will really struggle with short skins. What if you need to ascend this hill with 200m of vertical climbing? You will waste enormous amounts of precious energy fighting with poor grip.
On single day trips I often don't bother taking full length skins. If I cannot climb a particular hill I just choose some other way / path / thing to do. But depending on what you do full length skins are essential.
I have a pair of nylon full length skins in 40mm. They don't glide much but boy they have traction like a bulldozer. Sometimes this can save your life.

[tohevi]

Thanks a lot for your good advice!

I think I'll go the simple way and follow the "Instant Glide" section at Åsnes' website as @Jurassien suggested and then do my own experiences from that.

Regarding full-length skins I've decided to go with a 45mm 100% mohair, but I'm in doubt which Colltex model I should by because there are so many different versions to choose from. Eg Colltex BC Skin Mohair 45X2000, Colltex Mohair 2100/45mm, Colltex Mohair 2100/45mm Combifix to name a few. What are the difference between them, and which one do you recommend for Åsnes Amundsen Fram Waxless BC (208 cm)?

Best regards
Torben

[tohevi]

Since you have brand-new Åsnes skis, let Åsnes come to word:

https://asnes-academy.com/en/choose-the ... ry-simply/

If you are new to all this and find the information intimidating, or more bother than you think it's worth, then just scroll down to the paragraph "Instant Glide". The recommended product is made by Colltex, which is a very reputable company, and they maintain that this wax is suitable for waxing skins as well as the glide-zones of the ski. Personally, I would be reluctant to use it on any surface which the skin-glue comes in contact with, in other words it would be OK for the short skins and the exposed surfaces of the ski base, but for full-length skins I would prefer not to use it on the ski-bases.

The "traditional" treatment is to wax the skins with a block of neutral paraffin wax ("neutral" meaning without perfumes or additives) and to prep the glide zones with a hard grip wax, such as Swix Polar or Special Green (my preference, now replaced by V20 Green) and this kind of base-prep would be better if you intend to use full-length skins. However, to get you started, I would just go for the "Instant Glide" option and get out there and enjoy your new kit without overthinking the whole wax business.

With regard to full-length skins, the stiffly cambered Amundsens in combination with full-length 35mm or 38mm mohair skins (treated with paraffin wax) should give you very decent glide. Full-length mohair skins also climb very well - I use them regularly to climb fairly steep slopes. The downside is that they don't last very long. Depending on snow conditions, I usually have to replace mine after a tour of circa 350km, so one has to decide if the good glide is worth the extra cost. To the best of my knowledge, Åsnes and Fischer do not make skins - their skins are made for them by Colltex, who offer skins in 38mm width in mohair, nylon or mixed mohair/nylon. The 100% mohair in 38mm x 210cm are not listed on their website, but I have always been able to order them.

Just to be sure: the wax you think about in the paragraph "Instant Glide" is the "Colltex Natural Skin + Ski wax" (https://www.en.asnes.com/produkt/coll-t ... fellevoks/), right?

[Jurassien]

Just to be sure: the wax you think about in the paragraph "Instant Glide" is the "Colltex Natural Skin + Ski wax" (https://www.en.asnes.com/produkt/coll-t ... fellevoks/), right?

Yes, that is the product.

Regarding your previous question:

Colltex Mohair 2100/45mm Combifix have a metal tail-hook and a bar/metal loop on a flexible rubber tab which goes over the ski tip.

Colltex BC Skin Mohair 45X2000 and Colltex Mohair 2100/45mm come without the tail-hook and should have just a simple metal bar/loop to go over the ski tips. They are intended to be cut to the correct length (the 2000 and 2100 denote the length in mm). You cut them just short of the point where the ski tail bends upwards and it is better to make a rounded cut, rather than cutting straight across. I use a large coin to mark the round before cutting. Take the longer (2100/45mm) length for your 208cm skis, as it costs about the same. I don't use tail-hooks, as extra glue applied to the skin ends will stop them from peeling off.

I have skis of similar dimensions to the Amundsen (E99/Glittertind) on which I put 38mm wide skins. I also have slightly wider skis (E109, 60mm underfoot) on which I use 50mm wide skins, also 100% mohair. The 38mm skins glide better than the 50mm, so they would probably also glide better than your 45mm choice. Here is an example, just pulled from the net, of the skins I use. Note that the dealer has marked them as "nicht verfügbar" (= not available), but you can copy the picture/bookmark the website and take it with you to a Colltex dealer or e-mail an enquiry directly to Colltex. You can, of course, order the same skin in 45mm width:

https://www.mardosport.de/e-18526-neue- ... -38mm-neue

Colltex will make you skins in any width/length, with or without tail-hooks and with whichever tip fastening you wish. Just contact a dealer or your national distributor and tell them what you want to order.

[tohevi]

Thanks a lot @Jurassien

Since I wrote I've actually by pure luck been offered a unused pair of Colltex full length MIX skin 50mm x 2000 mm with a simple metal bar at the top. I know it's maybe a bit too short but at least it's free! So I think I'll go with that and make my own experience!

I might add a Åsnes X-skin 40 mm race (mohair) to my collection as well for better glide.

[Jurassien]

I know it's maybe a bit too short but at least it's free!

You can't argue with free!............and 200cm is certainly not too short for 208cm skis - just be sure to round off the ends. The width of 50mm is, however, approaching the limit for a ski with a 57mm waist. The edges must be free and they measure 1.5mm each side, so 57 minus 3.0 = 54mm, leaving you with just 2mm clearance each side. A bit more would be better, but you can always trim them with a carpet knife, and you don't have to trim the entire length of the skins - just the area underfoot to give your edges a bit more "air". It's not without reason that Åsnes recommend a skin-width of 45mm for this ski.

[JB TELE]

Why full length skins some here ask?
I have been many times in situations, on multi day ski tours, where going up a hill with deep snow is the way to safety, and so retreating back because the hill is too steep to climb for short skins, is just not an option as it is equal to failure.
Get 50 cm or more of powder and a moderate slope and you will really struggle with short skins. What if you need to ascend this hill with 200m of vertical climbing? You will waste enormous amounts of precious energy fighting with poor grip.
On single day trips I often don't bother taking full length skins. If I cannot climb a particular hill I just choose some other way / path / thing to do. But depending on what you do full length skins are essential.
I have a pair of nylon full length skins in 40mm. They don't glide much but boy they have traction like a bulldozer. Sometimes this can save your life.

Shorts skins and full length skins are both useful. I'm going to start taking both on some trips. A lot of the time I can get up things in short skins, but full lengths are more efficient. Instead of focusing on keeping the camber fully weighted on one skin while steeping up with the other, I can relax and not worry about slipping. I can go straight up something instead of switchbacking. Also, try ascending a steep slope full of lumpy, refrozen corn snow in anything other than full length skins. Not fun!
Shorts skins when sufficient give me so much better glide than full lengths. They are easier to put on without accidentally overlapping the edges and need to adjust a couple of times. They are easier to take off without taking your skis off that full lengths.
Its more weight, but gliding efficiency seems more important than a little bit of weight.