Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
- JohnSKepler
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Alfa Free - Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
Mounting my Meidjo 3.0 on my Voile V6 today. Picked them up from Freeheel Life exactly one week ago, today. Couple of things I noticed.
First, in this video, Dostie is going through improvements to the 3.0 over the previous model and one of these is the spring box. At 7:27 he removes the 3.0 spring box and shows how it is superior to the old model with, among other things, a flat bottom with fewer crevices and holes. Well, I bought a 3.0 and I definitely have the OLD spring box. This video is a few years old so maybe the new spring box didn't work? I do have the new 3.0 toe but I definitely have the old springbox.
Second, in the same video at 6:40 he is describing the 3.0 tour mode which involves simply lifting a heel wire. I definitely have the older heel which makes me think I also have to perform the old step in which looks unnecessarily complicated. One of the things that pushed me over to Meidjo was the simplification of some of the earlier procedures. Not sure about this at all now.
Third, one of the little kickstands in the springbox hasn't been properly retained. It's actually missing two small pins as you can see in the photos below. This is a straight up quality control issue, and a pretty bad one at that. An entire assembly step was missed! Maybe that's just what you get when you buy something made in France? I have the problem areas denoted in red and you can see there are two small, steel pins that are missing on one of the spring boxes. Moreover, the kickstand is not bottomed in it's retention divot but leans as you can see in this photo. Clearly, it's going to be coming out very soon if it doesn't just outright break. It leaves me wondering what I should do. I could easily fix the missing pin with a short piece of properly-sized piano wire but it would not be stainless and would rust. I'm also concerned because this is NOT the binding I thought I was buying. I was really wanting to get this thing mounted up today and out in the snow tomorrow but I may be looking at a trip back to Freeheel Life, about two-hours one-way, and that kind of pisses me off. I've called FHL and no one answered my call so I left a message. Not what you want with the price these cost.
What have other Meidjo owners found with their bindings? Similar QC issues? Did Meidjo drop the initial 3.0 springbox? Did they decide flat touring mode was more important than a complex step in? More recent videos, like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKBkU5-jeyI one seem to have Meidjo going back to the original configuration.
First, in this video, Dostie is going through improvements to the 3.0 over the previous model and one of these is the spring box. At 7:27 he removes the 3.0 spring box and shows how it is superior to the old model with, among other things, a flat bottom with fewer crevices and holes. Well, I bought a 3.0 and I definitely have the OLD spring box. This video is a few years old so maybe the new spring box didn't work? I do have the new 3.0 toe but I definitely have the old springbox.
Second, in the same video at 6:40 he is describing the 3.0 tour mode which involves simply lifting a heel wire. I definitely have the older heel which makes me think I also have to perform the old step in which looks unnecessarily complicated. One of the things that pushed me over to Meidjo was the simplification of some of the earlier procedures. Not sure about this at all now.
Third, one of the little kickstands in the springbox hasn't been properly retained. It's actually missing two small pins as you can see in the photos below. This is a straight up quality control issue, and a pretty bad one at that. An entire assembly step was missed! Maybe that's just what you get when you buy something made in France? I have the problem areas denoted in red and you can see there are two small, steel pins that are missing on one of the spring boxes. Moreover, the kickstand is not bottomed in it's retention divot but leans as you can see in this photo. Clearly, it's going to be coming out very soon if it doesn't just outright break. It leaves me wondering what I should do. I could easily fix the missing pin with a short piece of properly-sized piano wire but it would not be stainless and would rust. I'm also concerned because this is NOT the binding I thought I was buying. I was really wanting to get this thing mounted up today and out in the snow tomorrow but I may be looking at a trip back to Freeheel Life, about two-hours one-way, and that kind of pisses me off. I've called FHL and no one answered my call so I left a message. Not what you want with the price these cost.
What have other Meidjo owners found with their bindings? Similar QC issues? Did Meidjo drop the initial 3.0 springbox? Did they decide flat touring mode was more important than a complex step in? More recent videos, like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKBkU5-jeyI one seem to have Meidjo going back to the original configuration.
Veni, Vidi, Viski
Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
Not sure but another Dostie video seemed to say you had to buy the “freeride” box separately and additionally as they come with the kickstand version. That is if you want to go with the less icing, no flat tour mode option. All seems a bit experimental.
… I just have 75 mm myself…..
… I just have 75 mm myself…..
- fisheater
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Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
Why not give FHL a call John?
- Montana St Alum
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Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
Whenever I want to contact the folks at FHL, I send them a text. The number I use is 801-917-0769. They usually get back pretty quickly.
I'd think they'll make it right, but having to go back is a royal PITA!
I have some 2.1's (on Blizzards) and a 3.0 on my powder skis - Dynastars).
My 3.0 came with the tour style spring box. There is a small one-piece cover that I bought to place over the cavity. If you use this cover, you cannot tour on it. AFAIK, there is no flat tour mode, I think he was just showing that option for resort skiing to prevent snow packing in.
CORRECTION: There is a flat tour capability he talks about at 7:38 in this video:
I think that might be these:
https://www.freeheellife.com/collection ... mbing-bars
And these are the powder casings:
https://www.freeheellife.com/collection ... casing-kit
You have the 3.0 tour spring box. You should be able to use it by utilizing the kickstand and reaching down to lift the wire.
I have the powder cover on the bottom, so I've removed the tour function, but the 2.1 and 3.0 have the same method of touring using the kickstand. It's a bit of a nuisance, but I don't tour much.
If you are more interested in touring, you may want to go with 22 designs, as I think their tour mode is more convenient.
Now that I know about the flat-ish tour mode, I might rethink this!
I think the only issue is the missing pins holding in the kickstand. The missing pins are why the kickstand is crooked.
You've had it a week and it's unused, so I think you have the option to return or swap out.
I'll PM you my number if you'd like to talk about it.
Edit:
Also, at 4:40, he says that you had to raise the kickstand to step in until 3.0. That's incorrect. They enabled a step-in function like the 3.0 at the 2.1 modification.
At 5:14, raising the lever is required, otherwise, the tech fittings can release while skinning. He kind of glosses over that.
I'd think they'll make it right, but having to go back is a royal PITA!
I have some 2.1's (on Blizzards) and a 3.0 on my powder skis - Dynastars).
My 3.0 came with the tour style spring box. There is a small one-piece cover that I bought to place over the cavity. If you use this cover, you cannot tour on it. AFAIK, there is no flat tour mode, I think he was just showing that option for resort skiing to prevent snow packing in.
CORRECTION: There is a flat tour capability he talks about at 7:38 in this video:
I think that might be these:
https://www.freeheellife.com/collection ... mbing-bars
And these are the powder casings:
https://www.freeheellife.com/collection ... casing-kit
You have the 3.0 tour spring box. You should be able to use it by utilizing the kickstand and reaching down to lift the wire.
I have the powder cover on the bottom, so I've removed the tour function, but the 2.1 and 3.0 have the same method of touring using the kickstand. It's a bit of a nuisance, but I don't tour much.
If you are more interested in touring, you may want to go with 22 designs, as I think their tour mode is more convenient.
Now that I know about the flat-ish tour mode, I might rethink this!
I think the only issue is the missing pins holding in the kickstand. The missing pins are why the kickstand is crooked.
You've had it a week and it's unused, so I think you have the option to return or swap out.
I'll PM you my number if you'd like to talk about it.
Edit:
Also, at 4:40, he says that you had to raise the kickstand to step in until 3.0. That's incorrect. They enabled a step-in function like the 3.0 at the 2.1 modification.
At 5:14, raising the lever is required, otherwise, the tech fittings can release while skinning. He kind of glosses over that.
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:31 pm
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Alfa Free - Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
FHL did call back. As usual, service was good. They offered to send me some of the little pins but I had already made some and fixed the spring box. Still, I'd like the stainless version since mine are going to rust. I just made them from some small, zinc-plated nails. The pins are 1/16" in diameter which is a very common size for all manner of wire.
I got both bindings mounted. It wasn't hard. Just go slow and follow carpenters rule. First one took a while with pause to figure out the missing pins. Second one took about 15 minutes. This is my fifth set of bindings this winter (other four were Xplore) so I knew all the tricks for drilling, marking center lines, etc... The use of a stepped, purpose-specific drill bit made the job go quicker. I tapped with a 12AB. (Both Wintersteiger tools sourced from Utah Ski Gear who got them to me in a day.) Tapping was a bit of a pain. I feel like the pilot hole might should have been larger, but the bindings went on nicely. Holes lined up perfectly. No dimples on ski base. No stripped screws.
They bindings came with some anti-ice tape to put under the spring box. I don't think Dostie used any in his install video but the directions called for it so I used the tape where the directions said to use it.
I did make one change. I was going to put on brakes but I just didn't like the design. I put on one set and pulled them back off before the polyurethane glue dried. I'll wear leashes if I have to - though I really don't want to. I'm not convinced they are safe for the wearer. But the brakes were just too much of an afterthought and interfered with what seems like a pretty well-thought out system.
I did put the boots in to the bindings to test the release. They seem really stiff. But I also didn't have a great way to hold the ski for testing that. I may try with some C-clamps later.
When the glue cures a bit (I know it doesn't provide any structural support) I try them on in the house and see how they feel in the tele stance. Really looking forward to trying them out!
I got both bindings mounted. It wasn't hard. Just go slow and follow carpenters rule. First one took a while with pause to figure out the missing pins. Second one took about 15 minutes. This is my fifth set of bindings this winter (other four were Xplore) so I knew all the tricks for drilling, marking center lines, etc... The use of a stepped, purpose-specific drill bit made the job go quicker. I tapped with a 12AB. (Both Wintersteiger tools sourced from Utah Ski Gear who got them to me in a day.) Tapping was a bit of a pain. I feel like the pilot hole might should have been larger, but the bindings went on nicely. Holes lined up perfectly. No dimples on ski base. No stripped screws.
They bindings came with some anti-ice tape to put under the spring box. I don't think Dostie used any in his install video but the directions called for it so I used the tape where the directions said to use it.
I did make one change. I was going to put on brakes but I just didn't like the design. I put on one set and pulled them back off before the polyurethane glue dried. I'll wear leashes if I have to - though I really don't want to. I'm not convinced they are safe for the wearer. But the brakes were just too much of an afterthought and interfered with what seems like a pretty well-thought out system.
I did put the boots in to the bindings to test the release. They seem really stiff. But I also didn't have a great way to hold the ski for testing that. I may try with some C-clamps later.
When the glue cures a bit (I know it doesn't provide any structural support) I try them on in the house and see how they feel in the tele stance. Really looking forward to trying them out!
Veni, Vidi, Viski
- Stephen
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6’3” / 191cm — 172# / 78kg, size 47 / 30 mondo
Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
@JohnSKepler, you made me look — glad I did.
One of the pins was out of place.
Red ones have been used about 10 - 12 times and purchased Late 2021.
Black ones purchased Late 2022.
I wonder if the rotational action of the pivot caused the pin to back out?
The Kickstand rotates with every step or turn (every up / down cycle of the binding).
I’m thinking a drop of threadlock on the pins might be a good idea, to hold them in place.
The pins slide in the plastic housing without much resistance.
I’d be interested to know if anyone else has run into this problem.
. . .
One of the pins was out of place.
Red ones have been used about 10 - 12 times and purchased Late 2021.
Black ones purchased Late 2022.
I wonder if the rotational action of the pivot caused the pin to back out?
The Kickstand rotates with every step or turn (every up / down cycle of the binding).
I’m thinking a drop of threadlock on the pins might be a good idea, to hold them in place.
The pins slide in the plastic housing without much resistance.
I’d be interested to know if anyone else has run into this problem.
. . .
- Montana St Alum
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Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
If the pins are not completely inserted, I think that rotation could engage the end and push the pin out. Making sure they extend beyond the curved surface of the pivot probably is enough. It had been for me, before I put the powder cover on. I suppose a drop of glue, if you don't plan to remove them, could help as well.
Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
Stainless steel machine thread screws are easily found at the hardware store, and they won't back out. I'd consider hex-insert (allen) head. Longer ones will have an unthreaded shanks under the head. Local metal supply could put you wise to more resources.
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 506
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Alfa Free - Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
@Stephen , it will be fairly easy to find out if kickstand rotation is causing this. Go ski a few times and see if it is backing out. I'm going to guess that it won't. It's a really slippery plastic. But, I do want to know so please let us know! But, you have probably verified the quality control issue. My pins were missing. One of yours wasn't seated correctly. Whoever is on the assembly line inserting the pins needs to be sent to an ISO 9000 course as punishment!
@Montana St Alum , getting glue to stick to this low surface energy plastic is a challenge. 3M has some Scotch welds that do a great job but they're not cheap. I keep some of it around to fix stuff so, if it comes to that, I'll test it out. Already used it to re-glue the ends of my Nansen poles!
@Montana St Alum , getting glue to stick to this low surface energy plastic is a challenge. 3M has some Scotch welds that do a great job but they're not cheap. I keep some of it around to fix stuff so, if it comes to that, I'll test it out. Already used it to re-glue the ends of my Nansen poles!
I like this idea but it'll take a couple of manufacturing steps. First, I I'd take a full thread screw, spin it in a drill, and use a file to machine off the threads at the end. Also, it's going to be tough to find a socket cap head narrow enough to fit. There's very little clearance between the hole and the case. It might be best to go with a straight-slot and, after you machine off the threads, turn the screw over in the drill chuck and machine down the head to fit. It will have to be a stainless steel screw through so might be hard to source. If Stephen's hypothesis is right, however, a screw of some kind is the permanent solution.TallGrass wrote: ↑Fri Feb 03, 2023 10:36 pmStainless steel machine thread screws are easily found at the hardware store, and they won't back out. I'd consider hex-insert (allen) head. Longer ones will have an unthreaded shanks under the head. Local metal supply could put you wise to more resources.
Veni, Vidi, Viski
- Montana St Alum
- Posts: 1138
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Re: Brand New Meidjo with Quality Control Issue
@JohnSKepler
Regarding the pins holding in the kickstands:
Yeah, a drop of glue probably won't work. Honestly, I had the kickstands in on 3 sets of bindings for a couple of years and none of them ever backed off. I think it's a non-issue but you could monitor it.
If it did become an issue, you could take a needle, push the pin in just past flush with the plastic and take a soldering iron and melt a bit of the plastic over to stop movement, but I really think it won't come to that.
I say, erase this from your mind as an issue.
Regarding the pins holding in the kickstands:
Yeah, a drop of glue probably won't work. Honestly, I had the kickstands in on 3 sets of bindings for a couple of years and none of them ever backed off. I think it's a non-issue but you could monitor it.
If it did become an issue, you could take a needle, push the pin in just past flush with the plastic and take a soldering iron and melt a bit of the plastic over to stop movement, but I really think it won't come to that.
I say, erase this from your mind as an issue.