Stephen wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:49 pm
GrimSurfer wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:42 pm
I was being a little too subtle.
If you really want to assist someone, don’t tell them what to do. Help them understand why to do something.
Did I not do this in Post #1?
Stephen wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 14, 2022 3:00 am
I don’t know why, but the binding is manufactured without enough clearance in the screw hole to allow the mounting screws to have a snug, but unimpeded fit.
Possibly this was not a problem in the original manufactured product, but then, at some later time, the mounting screws were changed to a slightly different screw, which is now causing the problem.
It’s also possible it’s by design, to keep ski techs from over-tightening the screw and stripping out the screw hole, which would be an even bigger problem.
If one is aware of this potential problem, one can take the appropriate steps to avoid the issue.
The problem is, until it happens to you, you might not know.
For me, the best, easiest solution to this problem is this:
Before mounting the binding, simply put a screw in each hole and turn it until it is completely tight, and then keep turning the screw until it turns relatively freely.
If anyone thinks this is bad advice, please say so.
Why not just drill or ream it to size, instead of using the fastener? Isn’t that the more elegant approach? The whole won’t be ragged as AF, there’s less chance of splitting the plastic (it’s pretty soft and forgiving but using a coarse threaded screw instead of a sharp drill bit comes with risk).
I mean, anything can be turned into a hammer. But hammers work best to drive a nail. Not that any of us haven’t used something than a hammer to drive a nail at least once in our lives. LOL
Seriously though, there are hazards reaming or drilling too. You’re taking material away from a load path (screw head —> dog bone washer —> binding. The weakest part of this load path is the plastic. So best not to mess with this too much.
If it were me, I’d rather take down the threads from where the fastener exits the top sheet to where it meets the screw head. We’re taking mild steel here (don’t let the term “mild” fool you. A lot of mild steel is tougher than stainless steels, which can be hard/brittle).
Removing unengaged threads won’t have any practical effect on clamping force or fastener longevity. In fact, unengaged threads are stress risers. That’s why screws and bolts in single sheer usually break where the threads are not engaged (in tension, they usually break where the threads exit the material into which they are screwed).
You don’t need to be a machinist with a metal or screw lathe to do this. A Dremel and abrasive but can get the job done.
The problem is the fastener. Perhaps doing something about that is easier than changing everything else around it.
We dreamed of riding waves of air, water, snow, and energy for centuries. When the conditions were right, the things we needed to achieve this came into being. Every idea man has ever had up to that point about time and space were changed. And it keeps on changing whenever we dream. Bio mechanical jazz, man.