Retrofitting inserts into previously drilled skis Part 1
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 555
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:31 pm
- Location: Utahoming
- Ski style: XCBCD
- Favorite Skis: Voile Objective BC, Rossignol BC 80
- Favorite boots: Scarpa F1 Bellows, Alpina Alaska XP
- Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Retrofitting inserts into previously drilled skis Part 1
This procedure covers the installation of inserts into skis with bindings previously installed using traditional binding screws. The inserts were sourced from Binding Freedom. Ski-specific tools were sourced from Binding Freedom and Tognar Toolworks. The skis being worked are 190cm Asnes Gamme 54 with Xplore bindings. Skis with different composition or metal reinforcements may behave quite differently than described here. Above all, take your time and go slow. If you do this when it is still warm outside you won't be rushed to get it done and go skiing. Use the right tools and parts and if you get stuck, ask questions here, on Facebook, or any of the many places you can find help these days.
A few words of caution. If you've ever used a tap in metal this is nothing like that. These threads cut really easy. Also, I found this job to be much, much easier than an initial binding install. There's no measuring. The holes are already there. Just drill them out. The procedure below, however, does assume some minimum skill set with tools. This isn't a difficult job but wood is soft and drills can make a mess quickly. All the torques and forces used in this procedure are very low. If you're doing something and you're having to go much more than finger tight, you're either over doing it or something isn't right. Take your time, find some experienced oversight, crack open a beer or pour yourself a glass of your favorite drink, put on some music, and relax. Enjoy doing your own work! By doing the work yourself you're also developing the skills and acquiring the tools you can use to make repairs out in the field. One of the reasons I'm removing a set of perfectly good bindings and installing inserts is because I want to carry a complete extra binding. If anything happens to the one on the ski I can easily replace it in the field.
As you go into this be aware that things may be different than I describe. I mounted these bindings last year on brand new skis so knew exactly what I was getting in to. You may run into things like wood rot or other damage under the binding that will require a change in approach. In a lot of cases there are materials and techniques to repair some kinds of damage and even correct mistakes like drilling through the ski. So, if you see something or do something that seems catastrophic, don't panic. It can probably be fixed. And if it can't, it's likely best the problem was discovered on your workbench and not out on a frozen lake somewhere 20 miles from the nearest road!
Materials:
- Screws of appropriate size
- Inserts
- Two-part epoxy
Tools:
- clamps for securing ski.
- screwdriver and bits
- T2 Torx bit (to remove the old screw)
- Pozi-drive bit (to put in the new screws)
- drill, preferable smaller-sized, battery powered
- handheld coutersink tool
- stepped insert installation drill bit https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-i ... drill-bit/
- Insert installation tap https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-installation-tap/
- insert installation tool https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-i ... tion-tool/
- 9/32" collar
- tap handle
- rotary tool with mini drum sander bit
Remove the original binding using appropriate tool. I installed these last year so had the T2 Torx bit. Depending on the kind of glue used this may be harder or easier. I used Titebond III and the disassembly was easy. You will find the holes are puckered from where the threads bit into the hole. I used a mini-drum sander bit to smooth off these holes flush with the top sheet. Make sure you move the tool and use light pressure. You don't want to put a divot in the top sheet. Nice and Flat! I next used the stepped drill bit from Binding Freedom designed for installing inserts. The shoulder on this bit that limits depth is very shallow so I added a collar to prevent going to deep. The step on the 6.5mm x 9.5mm screw drill is a few millimeters wide but the one on the insert installation tool is maybe 1/2 mm. The collar is perhaps overkill but also peace of mind. I've been drilling holes for 40 years and can get them pretty straight by hand. If you're not confident you can do this you may want to use a bit guide or a drill press. I was quite satisfied with my hand results. I next removed the rim around the edge using a countersink tool. Not entirely necessary but I wanted my work surface to remain flat. Time to tap the holes using the Binding Freedom bottom-tap in my ancient tap handle. Proceed to Part 2 of the install! https://telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6200
A few words of caution. If you've ever used a tap in metal this is nothing like that. These threads cut really easy. Also, I found this job to be much, much easier than an initial binding install. There's no measuring. The holes are already there. Just drill them out. The procedure below, however, does assume some minimum skill set with tools. This isn't a difficult job but wood is soft and drills can make a mess quickly. All the torques and forces used in this procedure are very low. If you're doing something and you're having to go much more than finger tight, you're either over doing it or something isn't right. Take your time, find some experienced oversight, crack open a beer or pour yourself a glass of your favorite drink, put on some music, and relax. Enjoy doing your own work! By doing the work yourself you're also developing the skills and acquiring the tools you can use to make repairs out in the field. One of the reasons I'm removing a set of perfectly good bindings and installing inserts is because I want to carry a complete extra binding. If anything happens to the one on the ski I can easily replace it in the field.
As you go into this be aware that things may be different than I describe. I mounted these bindings last year on brand new skis so knew exactly what I was getting in to. You may run into things like wood rot or other damage under the binding that will require a change in approach. In a lot of cases there are materials and techniques to repair some kinds of damage and even correct mistakes like drilling through the ski. So, if you see something or do something that seems catastrophic, don't panic. It can probably be fixed. And if it can't, it's likely best the problem was discovered on your workbench and not out on a frozen lake somewhere 20 miles from the nearest road!
Materials:
- Screws of appropriate size
- Inserts
- Two-part epoxy
Tools:
- clamps for securing ski.
- screwdriver and bits
- T2 Torx bit (to remove the old screw)
- Pozi-drive bit (to put in the new screws)
- drill, preferable smaller-sized, battery powered
- handheld coutersink tool
- stepped insert installation drill bit https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-i ... drill-bit/
- Insert installation tap https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-installation-tap/
- insert installation tool https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-i ... tion-tool/
- 9/32" collar
- tap handle
- rotary tool with mini drum sander bit
Remove the original binding using appropriate tool. I installed these last year so had the T2 Torx bit. Depending on the kind of glue used this may be harder or easier. I used Titebond III and the disassembly was easy. You will find the holes are puckered from where the threads bit into the hole. I used a mini-drum sander bit to smooth off these holes flush with the top sheet. Make sure you move the tool and use light pressure. You don't want to put a divot in the top sheet. Nice and Flat! I next used the stepped drill bit from Binding Freedom designed for installing inserts. The shoulder on this bit that limits depth is very shallow so I added a collar to prevent going to deep. The step on the 6.5mm x 9.5mm screw drill is a few millimeters wide but the one on the insert installation tool is maybe 1/2 mm. The collar is perhaps overkill but also peace of mind. I've been drilling holes for 40 years and can get them pretty straight by hand. If you're not confident you can do this you may want to use a bit guide or a drill press. I was quite satisfied with my hand results. I next removed the rim around the edge using a countersink tool. Not entirely necessary but I wanted my work surface to remain flat. Time to tap the holes using the Binding Freedom bottom-tap in my ancient tap handle. Proceed to Part 2 of the install! https://telemarktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6200
Veni, Vidi, Viski
- Montana St Alum
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:42 pm
- Location: Wasatch, Utah
- Ski style: Old dog, new school
- Favorite Skis: Blizzard Rustler 9/10
- Favorite boots: Tx Pro
- Occupation: Retired, unemployable
Re: Retrofitting inserts into previously drilled skis Part 1
I just cut off those bumps with a razor knife. That works pretty well.
- JohnSKepler
- Posts: 555
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:31 pm
- Location: Utahoming
- Ski style: XCBCD
- Favorite Skis: Voile Objective BC, Rossignol BC 80
- Favorite boots: Scarpa F1 Bellows, Alpina Alaska XP
- Occupation: Rocket Scientist
Re: Retrofitting inserts into previously drilled skis Part 1
That's definitely the first thing to try and I did. And a sharp chisel. The top sheet on that Gamme 54 was a bit stiff for that.Montana St Alum wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 9:23 pmI just cut off those bumps with a razor knife. That works pretty well.
Veni, Vidi, Viski
- Montana St Alum
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:42 pm
- Location: Wasatch, Utah
- Ski style: Old dog, new school
- Favorite Skis: Blizzard Rustler 9/10
- Favorite boots: Tx Pro
- Occupation: Retired, unemployable
Re: Retrofitting inserts into previously drilled skis Part 1
As with many things, it only works when it works!JohnSKepler wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 3:47 pmThat's definitely the first thing to try and I did. And a sharp chisel. The top sheet on that Gamme 54 was a bit stiff for that.Montana St Alum wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 9:23 pmI just cut off those bumps with a razor knife. That works pretty well.