New leathers--crease control

[bgregoire]

Hi Friends @Rodbelan & @Whiteout,

here is something for you both:

Solvents might not be super bad for the Ptex base of the ski but they are certainly terrible for the glues used to bind the ski together. So I would not soak my skis in a bath of Swix base cleaner while I drink my coffee kinda thing

The Hydrobloc leather care paste on wet boots does WONDERS. Including on the Alasksa suede sweety. DO IT. They are robust boots and when waterproofing this way will last an eternity. Its kinda like magic kno' what I'm saying.

[Rodbelan]

I won't get surly with Mink oil, Rod. Pretty sure what it is. "Alchemy," for me is scientific sounding names used not to inform but lead the listener to give up and assume the speakers is ontop of a complex scientific understanding, so they don't need to. It all erupted for me once when trying to figure out exactly how to renew the DWR of my beloved gortex parka. I read all the technical FAQs I could click up--Pata, WLGore,--going through soap (stearates) and its scum, detergents (do you want ionic surfactants, anionic, or both?), contaminating fragrances. Nikwax is the kind of product that makes me surly. Woo-woo science mystery words--"harsh", "contaminating"-- on top of the fact that they just don't work. (At least to put the DWR back to new). Now I don't try. Wash until intolerable, then buy new. You can't take it with you. I saw something here about treating Alaskas with a product in damp towels. So, a water soluble wax. Can do.

But...here's a guy who feels my pain on curiousity killing scientific "explanations"!

"Funny... If you search on the net, you'll find 2 types of answer:
—«don't do that, hot scrape instead» (based on a very very intelligent syllogism; base cleaner are harsh, will harm your skis...) That' complete bullshit. Bases are made of plastic (Ptex polyethylene) and are inert.
—use commercial base cleaner; «common, don't be cheap, just 20$ for 150ml... it will last forever.» Nope. It won't. If you ski à Noël pis au jour de l'an exclusivement, ciboire, oui, ça va durer. I do not like to be robbed in repackaging/marketing BS."

Ok, I get it...

[Spiny Norman]

On my hiking boots I change where the bottom of the laces start. Also, removing part or all of the toe rand can dramatically change the crease point on a hiking boot.

[stilltryin]

...
I haven't solved all my fit issues yet, but this has helped with the toe pinch issue.
stuff toe.jpgprop boot.jpg

Tom, you say this "helped" -- did it actually hold and fix it for good?
Looks like the photos did not come forward with the quote -- they're back on page 1.
I like my Transnordics (BC), but only the right foot!
The left is breaking painfully over my two smallest toes (may show up on the turnaround if I can't fix -- just the left!).
Edit: I was joking, but I might actually consider Transnordic on right (bum ankle) and Alaska on left -- one black, one red!

[Stephen]

Not a pro on this — just tossing out ideas…

My sense is that break problems can be caused by excess volume in the boot.
I had similar (maybe less severe) problem and after I added additional insole material, it was not an issue.
Also, if the size is too big (long) that will cause the boot to break over the toes, rather than at the toe joint.

[stilltryin]

...I had similar (maybe less severe) problem and after I added additional insole material, it was not an issue...

So, there may be a chance that this is fixable once the break has established (?) -- seems to be some mixed opinions on this (as usual).

[fisheater]

...I had similar (maybe less severe) problem and after I added additional insole material, it was not an issue...

So, there may be a chance that this is fixable once the break has established (?) -- seems to be some mixed opinions on this (as usual).

I’m not an expert, just commenting on the mechanics. You need to an insole in to fill some space so that crease cannot form a powerful angle that hurts your foot.
If you have a piece of aluminum sheet it’s floppy. If you bend it into a ninety degree angle it’s rigid. If you give the leather enough room for to relative flat areas to form an angle to press against soft human tissue. You are wearing a torture device. You will break before the leather.
It’s simple mechanics. However it is quite possible I am not explaining it well enough. I will be happy to try again if this explanation was not sufficient.

[Stephen]

You are wearing a torture device. You will break before the leather.
I will be happy to try again if this explanation was not sufficient.

Ouch, once was enough for me — I’ll be good, I promise…

[stilltryin]

...an insole in to fill some space so that crease cannot form a powerful angle that hurts your foot.
...however it is quite possible I am not explaining it well enough.

Thanks. Explained just fine. I see it in the boot; I feel it in my soft human tissue.
Crease already formed.
You may also be suggesting that it is fixable which is my current practical concern -- I'm not sure a thick insole will work at this point, but I have not given up on possibilities yet. (Hedging my bets, I did just get the more proven sturdy NNN BC -- Alaska -- been wearing around the house.)

[Tom M]

...
I haven't solved all my fit issues yet, but this has helped with the toe pinch issue.
stuff toe.jpgprop boot.jpg

Tom, you say this "helped" -- did it actually hold and fix it for good?
Looks like the photos did not come forward with the quote -- they're back on page 1.
I like my Transnordics (BC), but only the right foot!
The left is breaking painfully over my two smallest toes (may show up on the turnaround if I can't fix -- just the left!).
Edit: I was joking, but I might actually consider Transnordic on right (bum ankle) and Alaska on left -- one black, one red!

Yes it did help. I did this after every ski for a couple of months. The boots would be damp from skiing and that seemed to help the boot leather form a new memory.