What’s the difference between a xcD ski and light skiMo ski?

[spopepro]

I’m obviously not done mounting them up yet so I can’t tell you how they ski. I have a pair of the old F1 race boots with the bellows so I should be able to get some metatarsal flex. 2442g on the scale ski, boot, bindings (195 skis,29 boots, upgraded boot liners). I do plan on reporting here once I have some time on them like this.

[jyw5]

would like to see how your Ingstads do once you mount those and try them! awesome.

also, just a thought. the Nosi 76 might be a candidate for mounting light AT bindings (like the Plum 99 or 120) and plastic skimo boots.

Nosi 76 sidecut is very similar to the Salomon X-Alp...just a few mm narrower. The asnes website says "tech" for binding type...so I believe it would work. Heavy pack or heavier skiiers or aggressive hard skiing might be risking binding separation from the ski...I think a 164cm or 172cm for someone who weighs between 115lbs - 160lbs would be the ideal range.

Nosi 76 does not come in WL and might have a touch more camber than some of the skimo skis in similar widths. The rocker tip looks similar to many skimo alpine skis. Also the tips have the race skin attachment notch which is a big plus!

Add some ski crampons and you'll be climbing ice walls.

[Transplantskier]

would like to see how your Ingstads do once you mount those and try them! awesome.

This is exactly the kind of thing I've contemplated! The Ingstad at 84-62-74 has almost as much underfoot as Dynafit's skimo race ski at 94-64-79. Very very interested to hear how this setup skis.

This adventure Kilian Jornet did a few years back is on the Salomon Minim at 97-68.5-83. The Plum Le Roc D'Enfer Ski ski is pretty much a clone of the Minim. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zflO59_ ... ailRunning

[Lightfoot]

I should admit that I’ve combined disciplines. I suppose they call it “Nordic backcountry” or whatever.

I put a dynafit TLT speed turn 2.0 binding on my Madshus epoch skis with an arcteryx procline boot (purchased massively on sale, like $100 for this amazing boot!). I’ve been taking it backcountry but nothing too steep. I’m still pretty fast on the setup and can skate ski the flats if it’s packed at all. I do notice My Achilles get worked because of the difference in toe attachment from a 3 pin or NNN setup.

I took it out on the resort last weekend to test downhill capabilities, and to start learning my telemark turn (was able to make a few good turns which I’m stoked on!!). Even for parallel turns I never locked my heel and was surprised how well I could turn the ski. for just normal parallel turns and carves I took it down a few full runs and felt awesome. No moguls or anything, though I did get technical last season and got beat up in the bumps (185 cm skis, though I think I just need to have better technique).

It’s a pretty sweet setup but part of me is wishing I would have went for a lightweight skiMo setup or AT setup for heartier backcountry and then a separate xcD setup with a ski like the Fischer e99 for the windy trail kind of stuff I’m doing.

The reasoning behind the setup I went with was “quiver of one” thinking I could still cruise (I can) and also ski downhill solidly (I can, sort of). But I see another pair of skis in my future and a possible remount to a xcD binding and boot for the epochs. We’ll see !

[Lightfoot]

And thanks for all the feedback about northern NM. I just moved out here and am already really getting to know the mountains well. I know the area you’re talking about for Williams lake to wheeler peak - I’d love to rent one of the yurts and do something like that, but not sure it’s in the cards this winter. Unfortunately, so far our snow has been a bit sparse, so hoping February is snowy! Praise Ullr!

[bauerb]

just found this thread. 6 months ago I was convinced I would race skimo on tele gear. then I had to get a crash course on equipment and rules. the only tele setup that meets ISMF rules would be Crispi + Meidjo. since I would have had to buy all that gear, I made a very honest evaluation of what I was trying to achieve, and decided to spend the money on full on skimo race gear. so the most important question to ask yourself is: what are you trying to achieve with the gear?

Skimo race gear has one purpose: be as fast as possible going uphill, while providing just enough control to survive the downhills. using skimo race gear for any purpose other than racing( or training) will basically result in a bunch of compromises that you may be ok with, but you may not. eg. driving a race car around a race track is a lot of fun. driving a race car to buy groceries or go to Home Depot is not much fun.

- skimo race skis do have some variations, but very simply it comes down to skis with "some shape" or "VK Missiles" with no sidecut at all...track straight as you sprint up a mountain. I bought Atomic Backland UL 65's because they are extremely light, but also have some shape. I am not the best alpine skier( I've been pure tele for so long...) and a little shape helps me descend

- skimo race skis are basically in 2 lengths : 161cm for men, a little shorter for women. why only 2 lengths? rules specify a minimum length. any longer than required equals more weight going uphill.

- glide. 100% depends on your skins. race skins are Mohair, they are somewhat narrow, and are usually cut to a max of 8" behind your heel plate. I have 3 pairs of race skins and some glide better than others without being waxed...but waxing will improve glide. in contrast, I have some full length BD skins for my 106 width tele skis...zero glide...I can aim them down the fall line on a 30% slope and they will not budge.

- skimo boots: as light as possible with as much ROM as possible. ROM is critical since race bindings have only 1 nominal heel riser. you need ROM. also, race boots are built for speed not comfort. 3 hrs in my race boots is plenty. wearing them all day sounds like torture. and forget swapping boots on your race skis: race bindings cannot be adjusted and are mounted using your actual boots( not relying on factory specs for sole length)

the moral of my story: don't buy skimo race gear unless you are serious about racing and training for racing.

[randoskier]

No respect..I tell ya

[jyw5]

just found this thread. 6 months ago I was convinced I would race skimo on tele gear. then I had to get a crash course on equipment and rules. the only tele setup that meets ISMF rules would be Crispi + Meidjo. since I would have had to buy all that gear, I made a very honest evaluation of what I was trying to achieve, and decided to spend the money on full on skimo race gear. so the most important question to ask yourself is: what are you trying to achieve with the gear?

Skimo race gear has one purpose: be as fast as possible going uphill, while providing just enough control to survive the downhills. using skimo race gear for any purpose other than racing( or training) will basically result in a bunch of compromises that you may be ok with, but you may not. eg. driving a race car around a race track is a lot of fun. driving a race car to buy groceries or go to Home Depot is not much fun.

- skimo race skis do have some variations, but very simply it comes down to skis with "some shape" or "VK Missiles" with no sidecut at all...track straight as you sprint up a mountain. I bought Atomic Backland UL 65's because they are extremely light, but also have some shape. I am not the best alpine skier( I've been pure tele for so long...) and a little shape helps me descend

- skimo race skis are basically in 2 lengths : 161cm for men, a little shorter for women. why only 2 lengths? rules specify a minimum length. any longer than required equals more weight going uphill.

- glide. 100% depends on your skins. race skins are Mohair, they are somewhat narrow, and are usually cut to a max of 8" behind your heel plate. I have 3 pairs of race skins and some glide better than others without being waxed...but waxing will improve glide. in contrast, I have some full length BD skins for my 106 width tele skis...zero glide...I can aim them down the fall line on a 30% slope and they will not budge.

- skimo boots: as light as possible with as much ROM as possible. ROM is critical since race bindings have only 1 nominal heel riser. you need ROM. also, race boots are built for speed not comfort. 3 hrs in my race boots is plenty. wearing them all day sounds like torture. and forget swapping boots on your race skis: race bindings cannot be adjusted and are mounted using your actual boots( not relying on factory specs for sole length)

the moral of my story: don't buy skimo race gear unless you are serious about racing and training for racing.

thanks for your input!
that was a great post.

My philosophy, for our OP, is this: if you arent racing, get a light setup that works and something fun. but know what you are buying. and if some of the stuff happens to be skimo gear, its ok. dont count grams when putting together a ski setup...the reality is, ski setups are so much lighter now than ever before. I personally like something comfortable and light vs. performance. somehow, it isnt possible to have all three. you are always going to compromise. If its lighter, its not as comfortable...if it has better downhill performance, it's heavier...etc. Skiing is all about compromises. I invested alot of time and money into being comfortable. I likely look terrible on my asnes skis most days, but I like the setups because they are superlight, durable/well made, beautiful, and convenient (easy for x-skins, waxing). And my leather boots are so comfortable vs. plastic. and lighter. When Im in good shape, I can ski for 8hrs! and my feet dont hurt and no blisters. I can't go up gnarly mountains with them (and even if I did, I wouldn't be able to come down).

My best downhill performing backcountry setup is heavy and uncomfortable, hard to get my feet in and out of the plastic boots... and the skins take some time to apply and remove. Its not terribly fun but they shred on steep terrain...I can go anywhere on this setup.

So think about what you want the ski setup to do for you and choose accordingly.

[bauerb]

a wise man once said "don't start counting grams until you stop eating doughnuts". before I get flamed for saying that, let me explain myself. I used to be a competitive road cyclist, Cat 3/4. I'd see guys spending hundreds of dollars on the lightest unobtanium pedals to save a few grams, but what would have benefited them more was better training and a diet... a lot of these guys had too much money and not enough discipline. when I bought myself my race setup this year, I spent enough money to get onto the right page in terms of weight, but I was "reasonable". eg. my boots were under $1,000, but the lightest boots are $3,000. my race weight is around 187lbs. that is also my ultra running weight. I am as lean as I can reasonably be....to lose more weight would require a calorie restrictive diet that would dominate my life. and when I race skimo, I don't worry if I have an extra pair of gloves in my pack or if I am carrying 500ml of extra water. my point: be reasonable about ski gear weight. leave the final gram counting to the super elite racers.