Outcast vs Meidjo, my thoughts with far too little experience

[Stephen]

This works well:
"High Temperature Teflon Tape 1 inch x 33 feet PTFE Adhesive Teflon Tape" on Amazon. $7.99
You can buy it in various widths.
I've also used silicone spray on bindings before I switched to NTN and it worked well.

Neither have worked 100%, but they improve the snow shedding.

I tried your idea of the Teflon tape (you can see some of the brown tape peeling off in the picture). I put it all over the place under the binding. It might help, but not eliminate.
I think the problem is two fold:
1. As it moves back and forth, the Spring Box pumps snow forward into all the voids under the flex plate;
2. There are metal parts in there that the snow freezes to right around freezing temps. Colder than a certain temp and there is no problem.

^^^ good advice. I've used silicone spray as well, but mostly just for icing and squeaking bindings not on the whole top sheet.

I've recently been using RainX instead of silicone. It is a water based wax instead of the solvent based silicone. I have been spraying the RainX on the whole top sheet and binding. It seems to work similarly and like silicone it works best if you do it well in advance and let it dry.

I tried your Rain-X idea and it seems to keep the snow from bonding to the top sheet , but the snow does still collect, so the end result (weight of snow on skis) is still the same.

Obviously, these ideas must work for you guys, but I'm not getting the same results.
New, warm snow in the next few days, so will see how the silicone spray works. Two coats already applied.
The next idea is silicone plumber's grease. More of a hassle, but may work better if the spray is ineffective.

[wabene]

@Stephen I haven't had perfect results with any product so far. Seems to me we are trying to hit a moving target because there are so many different snow conditions. I was running laps with a friend, he on my SB98's which were untreated and me on my M78's which I had treated with RainX for the first time. His skis were completely encrusted with snow and mine were mostly clear. That day it seemed to make a big difference. I've since had them ice up. I'm still working through application techniques and frequency so the jury is out for me.

[fisheater]

Hey Woods, I recommitted to riding chairs. So I am looking at NTN , really just peaking through the window of the store. In Michigan it seems like the Outlaw binding is the most common Telemark binding I see. However as you note, it isn’t releasable. There’s a lot of flex in my T-4 / 3-pin Hardwire combination. I don’t think it would be the same with TX/Outlaw. I used to ski alpine at DIN 14 1/2 on bindings that only went to 14. That was a lot of years ago. What are your thoughts? I kind of think I may be better on the new Voile TTS, it’s Plum toe is releasable. I don’t pound like I used to. It’s simple, and could serve dual use for an older guy that doesn’t pound big Utah bumps. However, Utah bumps are way better than those tight icebergs you have in the east!

[Montana St Alum]

Obviously, these ideas must work for you guys, but I'm not getting the same results.
New, warm snow in the next few days, so will see how the silicone spray works. Two coats already applied.
The next idea is silicone plumber's grease. More of a hassle, but may work better if the spray is ineffective.

Yeah, nothing has completely prevented it for me. Some of these things can help, but eliminating the problem completely in the snow conditions you describe is elusive. I have found that the problem gets easier to manage as my skis get wider. On my 92 underfoot it's a real problem, 102 underfoot less so and 108 is even less of a problem, but some snow will still get in there.

Neither have worked 100%, but they improve the snow shedding.

Edit: I had put ski brakes on my skis as well, but I have noticed that - especially on the narrower skis - snow gets in enough to prevent the brakes from deploying properly. I've since taken them off and now use leashes. I need them anyway, just so I don't lose a ski in deep snow and the last thing I need is for a ski to go rocketing down the hill and hit someone on Piste.

[Manney]

I used to ski alpine at DIN 14 1/2 on bindings that only went to 14.

Either your bindings were shot or you are 6-5 and weighed 300#.

[fisheater]

I used to ski alpine at DIN 14 1/2 on bindings that only went to 14.

Either your bindings were shot or you are 6-5 and weighed 300#.

No Manny, the terrain I was skiing if you fell you were at least 100 feet down the mountain in terrain too steep to climb at all in snow you would sink to your waist in or deeper without skis. You torqued the bindings so they wouldn’t release.
You wouldn’t know about that kind of stuff on piste.
Have a nice day and thanks for the advice.

[Manney]

I skied slalom for five years up to the NC level. You?

[fisheater]

I skied steep off piste terrain back when there weren’t many people skiing that terrain. You didn’t want your binding popping off, as I previously explained
Couldn’t you walk back up the race course and put your ski back on after a fall on the race course? You usually can on the groomed piste.

[Manney]

Whenever I skied big powder, my skis didn’t go anywhere on release. They stayed in the pow. Me too. That didn’t happen on the pistes. Not for me anyway. Maybe snow was different back in the day.

[Stephen]

I have found that the problem gets easier to manage as my skis get wider. On my 92 underfoot it's a real problem, 102 underfoot less so and 108 is even less of a problem, but some snow will still get in there.

So, Liberty Genome, 141 UF, problem solved?

I now want a pair!