Can't control speed! Snowplough doesn't plough...

[Mtlsam]

So the title tells you my problem. I find that my snowplough doesn't seem very effective in controlling my speed going down even fairly moderate slopes. What gives?!
A little about me, I'm 6'-3", 195lbs, probably 215lbs fully kited out and with my day pack. I'm on 200cm modern E-99 waxable, with NNN-BC manual bindings and Rossignol X-6 boots. In theory these skis are too short, but I'm already going faster than I want to be...
I have observed other (smaller) skiers on both classic equipment as well as more xcd style gear, creep down the trails, but I seem to keep building speed and eventual panicked turns into the trees or falling over seem to be my only end results. It's been frustrating and more recently painful.
Anyone have any tips? The fun of the flats and uphills is starting to get outweighed by the terror of the downhills and I'm getting discouraged...

[fisheater]

I ski a Gamme, it’s a similar ski. There are places where the Gamme isn’t practical, at least for my well being. Since your skill is only going to improve in increments that are too small to save your flesh, I would recommend changing your equipment.
I would look at a more xcD oriented ski, my preference would be Asnes Falketind or Rabb, but you could go Fischer S98/112 or the Madshus equivalent. I wouldn’t go to the Fischer T-78 as I believe it may be too close to your E-99.
Personally, I own a Falketind Xplore in 196cm, it doesn’t kick and glide like Gamme (E-99), but it most certainly kicks and glides, but it turns.
Now I am going to define a ski that turns. For a ski to turn, it must bend so as to reverse its camber. This is how an alpine ski turns. Yes, I can turn my Nordic cambered XC skis. THE DIFFERENCE IS I TURN THE SKIS. When a ski bends, it turns in the arc of the bend.
You need a ski that turns.
…..or you need to ski in a different place, where you can work on advancing your technique.
However, in my skiing development there is much to be learned about skiing on skis that bend and turn.
I also think there is a lot to be learned on more classic cambered XC skis as well. It’s just my opinion, you are at a juncture where a ski that turns will be a great benefit.
If you are looking for something more affordable, an old single camber Tua or Kazama might be your speed.

Good luck and best wishes.

[Mtlsam]

I ski a Gamme, it’s a similar ski. There are places where the Gamme isn’t practical, at least for my well being. Since your skill is only going to improve in increments that are too small to save your flesh, I would recommend changing your equipment.
I would look at a more xcD oriented ski, my preference would be Asnes Falketind or Rabb, but you could go Fischer S98/112 or the Madshus equivalent. I wouldn’t go to the Fischer T-78 as I believe it may be too close to your E-99.
Personally, I own a Falketind Xplore in 196cm, it doesn’t kick and glide like Gamme (E-99), but it most certainly kicks and glides, but it turns.
Now I am going to define a ski that turns. For a ski to turn, it must bend so as to reverse its camber. This is how an alpine ski turns. Yes, I can turn my Nordic cambered XC skis. THE DIFFERENCE IS I TURN THE SKIS. When a ski bends, it turns in the arc of the bend.
You need a ski that turns.
…..or you need to ski in a different place, where you can work on advancing your technique.
However, in my skiing development there is much to be learned about skiing on skis that bend and turn.
I also think there is a lot to be learned on more classic cambered XC skis as well. It’s just my opinion, you are at a juncture where a ski that turns will be a great benefit.
If you are looking for something more affordable, an old single camber Tua or Kazama might be your speed.

Good luck and best wishes.

Thanks as always for your input. Sounds like an upgrade is in order.

[fisheater]

Most of us have more than one pair of skis. I do. The E-99 is a fine ski, but you need that will bend and turn easier for you. You live in a unique and challenging skiing environment, it not for the faint of heart. It sure can be interesting and fun skiing environment

[Chisana]

From the picture posted, this terrain looks like terrain that I have to use snowplow or survival turns. I certainly couldn't link turns in the terrain posted. I am sure others can.
The op specifically asked about snowplowing.
I am 6' 190lb. and have many different skis, but my favorite for this type of skiing are my 195. E99's, with a rottefellast binding and merrell ultras or asolo snowfield leathers.
Perhaps the boot binding makes a difference. A different, more turn oriented ski may help you to turn better, but I question if it will improve your snowplowing.

[Capercaillie]

Hard to say over the Internet, maybe a lesson with a nordic coach is in order.

One thing it could be is if you are rolling your knees in too much. I developed that bad habit. It turns out skiing more does not necessarily make you ski better!



Practicing the snowplow crab turn really helps:

[Lo-Fi]

... I'm on 200cm ... In theory these skis are too short...
I have observed other (smaller) skiers on ...more xcd style gear, creep down the trails, but I seem to keep building speed and eventual panicked turns into the trees or falling over seem to be my only end results

All other things being equal, a shorter ski allows more power to be focused more precisely on the inside edges of a snow-plow -- giving you better speed control.

That might seem counter-intuitive if the thought is that a longer ski presents more edge.

The effectiveness of the edge is the key idea, and often, on a longer ski it is more difficult to engage/direct the edge. This is especially true on the narrow, uneven trails that we have in southern Quebec (I’m in the Gatineau Hills).

A shorter ski more easily focuses your energy on finding and holding that optimal angle for the maximum friction and bite that the snow-plow needs to slow you down.

A shorter ski will also turn/can be turned more easily than a longer one. Less swing weight and tips & tails that are closer to you and further from the trail sides/obstacles make for more nimble and targeted placement.

Again, while a longer ski theoretically will give you more leverage it takes more effort to control, and the terrain is meanwhile leveraging the length of the ski against you.

Typically, our eastern trails, in the Laurentians or the Adirondaks etc, are narrow, twisty, scraped down to be concave and icy like a bob-sled track, uneven like a mogul field, and bordered by rocks, stumps, and thick bush, all of which constantly grab and deflect the skis.

Navigating these conditions requires a crazy survival mix of snow-plow, parallel and telemark turns. Often, all you can do is ride out the steep icy section and look for a bit of space on the edge of the trail where you can crank out some kind of panic’d hockey-stop.

I’m 5’ 10”, 175lbs, and don’t ski hors-piste/backcountry on skis longer than 175cm (I have Karhu/Madshus Epoch/Panorama M68 and Guide/M78 skis, NNN-BC bindings, BCX6 and Alaska boots). If you are seeking more manoeuvrability, control and braking success, then you might consider 185cm for your height. Of course, the trade off is less kick & glide efficiency.

[phoenix]

"The effectiveness of the edge is the key idea"

In that video addressing the same concern, there's a moment when the guy illustrates bringing your knees in "too close together"; he also says (and it's quite visible) that doing that gives you plenty of edge. No matter how wide you make your wedge, if your skis remain flat on the snow, you'll slide, as he shows also, and why in the world he says yeah this is fine, I don't know. He should be able to stop in an instant if he rolled the skis up in that same stance. Think standing wider, AND rolling your knees in a little (don't have to do the exaggerated knock kneed thing); another way to achieve this is to think about rolling your ankles in, instead of, or along with, your knees. Use the edges on those E-99's, that's what they're for. Also consider lowering your stance a bit; a more athletic stance and will help transfer weight to those edges.
My personal preference is for a sturdy 75mm for trail touring, but the NNN-BC's should be quite adequate if you have a solid enough boot. Learning how to snowplow is an absolutely fundamental technique, regardless of your equipment.

[telerat]

I think the advice from Lo-Fi is very good. Snowplowing is all about power to the edge; the more you can get the ski on edge and the more you can get its angle opposite to downhill/the direction you are sliding, the more braking you will get. The most effective is of course if you can do a sideways stop as alpine skiers do. It requires sufficient space and technique, and I would recommend practicing it on more open terrain before trying it on a narrow and steep trail. That is a general advice, test out braking on shorter steep downhills with a safe runout, before going to more exposed terrain.

A narrow and torsional rigid ski with steel edges that is easy to put on edge, and supportive boots that helps with keeping the skis on edge, is the best. The wider your stance is, with tips close to but not hitting each other, the more braking you will get. A shorter ski can help with this on narrow trails, as it avoids the ski tail hitting the sides of the trail and reducing the angle/width of the stance, as well being generally easier to control.

I have not tried the Rossignol X-6 boot, but if it is sufficiently supportive and torsional rigid, it should be fine. The E-99 ski is good and suitable, and the length should suit you. Both your body and ski length is not an advantage though, and reducing ski length might be an option if your focus is on braking and maneuvering narrow trails downhill, instead of xc performance.

I am 175 cm/5'9" and have both Åsnes Ousland 190 cm and Falketind 62 180 cm, and while Falketind is awesome on terrain where I can make nice turns, I would choose Ousland for the trail shown in you picture, and possibly want a shorter length. When I started xcd skiing I had soft boots and skis, and was skiing a steep forest road with switchbacks on hard snow. The speed did not decrease no matter how hard I tried, so I got some time to wonder where I would end up, but I managed to stop in the end. Skis with steel edges and supportive leather boots greatly helped on later trips.

[Mtlsam]

Thanks for all the detailed replies. Lots of helpful information!