Binding Screw Glue

[Stephen]

I hate screwing stuff up because I didn’t follow the directions (no pun intended — really).
Asnes must be saying this for some reason — something bad happened with some other glue, I guess.
What do you guys think? I’m used to using epoxy. Yes / No?
Reasons for or against?
Weigh in...

[Woodserson]

Asnes talks about this in one of their videos. They are anal about no water getting into the screw holes, especially for polar travel, when you life is on the line over several months and you might be sledging though ankle deep puddles in a new brave melting arctic. I've used it for a while, but re-mounting is a PITA because it clogs the threads of the screws and makes them very hard to re-use. Same with epoxy.

Fey Brothers and Nils at Altai both recommend Shoe Goo/Goop II type glues. I've used them in the past and now I'm back to using them again. They seem to work well and if I remount I can carefully strip the glue off the screw threads and easily re-use screws.

And most have been using wood glue for eons, which offers a satisfying ***craack*** when you break the seal.

Whatever soothes your mind. You're not locking the screw, you're keeping water out.

[satsuma]

Polyurethane will react with the wood and any moisture present, but doesn't bond well with the metal, It will act as more of a filler and you will have better luck removing the screws later. When polyurethane contacts any moisture, it will foam and fill the space between the metal and wood.

Epoxy is an excellent adhesive for metal and will also bond with the wood. It will hold, but good luck getting the screws out later withour damaging the ski.

[Woodserson]

Epoxy is an excellent adhesive for metal and will also bond with the wood. It will hold, but good luck getting the screws out later withour damaging the ski.

Heat the screwhead with a soldering iron and it will break the epoxy and the screw will come out piece-o-cake. Epoxy hates big heat.

[Tom M]

I've been using Titebond III ultimate wood glue for a number of years for mounting skis that have a wood core. It is waterproof, lubricates the screw, is easy to use, and the excess cleans up with water. My main issue with polyurethane glues, like Gorilla glue, is that the shelf life of the unused product is about a year after it is opened. I hate having to throw away a bottle of product after a year. Epoxy is a good choice, and I use it for filling holes if I move a binding. It is just a bit messy to clean up, and if your screw has a good bite into the wood, I don't think the epoxy adds much as far as strength goes.

[Rodbelan]

I second the Titebond III... even the II is good for that matter.

Be careful about epoxy; do not use the cheap 5 minutes cure (strong catalyseur make the adhesive more brittle—it is just chemistry). It tends to crack under use & pressure. Probably ok, but...
I use G/flex from West System; 24 hour cure and it keeps just a little elasticity...

Like Woods saying use a weldering iron to remove the screws... very easy. I use a little rod with a propane blow torch (heating the rod connected to the screws). No mess. No hassle...

[Stephen]

As it happens, G/Flex is exactly what I use. Left over from a marine project. Great stuff.

[Whiteout]

Just to add emphasis to previous OKs for epoxy, it is what they make skis out of. And boats. (but slow cure, not 5-minute. And needs warmth to cure.) Lot of Titebond (PVA glue, no?) on boats, which also see a lot of water and flex a lot.

[fgd135]

I've also always used waterproof wood glues like Titebond. For wood core skis, the glues are there just to prevent moisture from getting into the core; the mechanical action of the screw threads is what anchors the binding in place. Also, be aware that epoxies and some other adhesives can dissolve the foam cores of some skis.
Otoh, if a manufacturer recommends a specific adhesive, that is what I would use, as I assume they would have tested products for durability and etc.
Epoxies are certainly able to be loosened, with heat, but that is of little comfort if a binding breaks and needs replacement while you're in the field instead of the home workshop. Epoxy use often results in a huge piece of the ski core adhered to the screw threads when the screw is removed, and a helicoil or a mess of fine steel wool has to inserted into the hole to make in useable a second time...once again, easy to do at home, but not so much on the trail..

[Whiteout]

Also, be aware that epoxies and some other adhesives can dissolve the foam cores of some skis.

True for polyester resin (probably due to MEK catalyst); not true for epoxy. Have applied a lot of epoxy to a lot of foam.

Edit to add: Biggest con of all for epoxy mounts, IMO:

Epoxies are certainly able to be loosened, with heat, but that is of little comfort if a binding breaks and needs replacement while you're in the field instead of the home workshop.