This is the World Famous TelemarkTalk / TelemarkTips / Telemark Francais Forum, by far the most dynamic telemark and backcountry skiing discussion board on the world wide web since 1998. East, West, North, South, Canada, US or Europe, Backcountry or not.
This is the World Famous TelemarkTalk / TelemarkTips / Telemark Francais Forum, by far the most dynamic telemark and backcountry skiing discussion board on the world wide web since 1998. East, West, North, South, Canada, US or Europe, Backcountry or not.
This is the World Famous TelemarkTalk / TelemarkTips Forum, by far the most dynamic telemark and backcountry skiing discussion board on the world wide web. We have fun here, come on in and be a part of it.
My Xplore bindings call for Rottefella Mounting Glue or Cascol polyurethane glue. Drill holes, fill with glue, place the binding, drive screw into the glue-filled hole. For moisture prevention.
What other glues/sealers are y'all using if I can't easily source this stuff. What are the properties I'm looking for? I'm guessing waterproof and flexible below freezing?
What if I removed some Rottefella auto bindings from a set of skis and put on a set of Xplore. Is that recommended? Each screw hole weakens the ski and these cross country skis have a lot less material than downhill skis.
Any other mounting tips before I take a drill to my Asnes FT62? Rottefella has a nice template you can print out and I'm an experienced screwer.
Urethane adhesive E6000 can be subbed for that Euro glue. Ace Hardware and auto supply stores sell it. Any new mounting holes in a ski need at least a cm clearance in all directions from previous drilled holes to prevent weakening the ski. Ok to use the old holes if the screws will grab in them. Fill old unused holes with the adhesive, or use plastic hole plugs. This is primarily to keep moisture from the core; does not add any strength.
Avoid a situation where a line of closely spaced holes, old and new, span across the width of the ski.
Many nordic skis do indeed have mounting plates of titanal or ABS in the binding area, hard to say what yours may or may not have; if they have titanal plates, you'll need to tap after drilling.
"To me, gracefulness on skis should be the end-all of the sport" --Stein Eriksen
I’ve done quite a few mounts with Titebond 3 waterproof. However my latest Asnes skis recommended polyurethane glue. I used Gorilla glue. I dropped the recommended drop of water in, the glue reacted and expanded. So far, so good. I’ve never had a problem with a mount, I used Titebond 2 water resistant for many mounts before that. I have used epoxy and steel wool and mounted in previously mounted holes. I have bent skis, when I was much younger, I have never ripped out a mount
Any other mounting tips before I take a drill to my Asnes FT62? Rottefella has a nice template you can print out and I'm an experienced screwer.
I don't know what the recommended hole diameter or depth is for the Xplore binding screws but I really like drill bits like these for mounting: https://www.tognar.com/mounting-drill-b ... -bindings/ Bits like this have probably prevented me from making a few "too many beers" mistakes. Alternately, I'll just wrap tape around the correct diameter drill bit as a depth stop.
It's just hard for me to trust something that cleans up with water to be waterproof.
Maybe there's some chemical magic that makes that work.
Polyurethane seems to be the standard.
I like epoxy, well, just because I do -- I've used 100s of gallons of it.
I like G/Flex because it has the quality of being more flexible than regular epoxies.
Some people don't like epoxy because it makes screw removal, without damage, difficult.
The workaround being to carefully heat the screws before removal, to soften the epoxy.
But really, polyurethane is a lot easier.
Being OCD, I like to take the extra time to make sure the entire inside surface of the hole is coated with glue before screwing.
I also think it's important to not actually fill the entire hole with glue and then start screwing, because the hole is sealed at the top by the screw, and then hydraulic pressure is created as the screw is tightened that might? damage the ski.
But, maybe I worry needlessly...
Can I use epoxy on foam core skis? I mean, would you?
"I really have had enough of illogical detraction by association as a way of avoiding logical argument by an absurd extension of ad hominem argument to third parties."
It's just hard for me to trust something that cleans up with water to be waterproof.
Maybe there's some chemical magic that makes that work.
Polyurethane seems to be the standard.
I like epoxy, well, just because I do -- I've used 100s of gallons of it.
I like G/Flex because it has the quality of being more flexible than regular epoxies.
Some people don't like epoxy because it makes screw removal, without damage, difficult.
The workaround being to carefully heat the screws before removal, to soften the epoxy.
But really, polyurethane is a lot easier.
Being OCD, I like to take the extra time to make sure the entire inside surface of the hole is coated with glue before screwing.
I also think it's important to not actually fill the entire hole with glue and then start screwing, because the hole is sealed at the top by the screw, and then hydraulic pressure is created as the screw is tightened that might? damage the ski.
But, maybe I worry needlessly...
Ha ha, yeah I just put the Titebond 3 up there for discussion, I've never used it. I'm a contractor and there aren't too many days that pass when I don't drive a screw. For whatever reason I always have my local, Continental Ski and Bike, do all my mounts. There is an older gentleman who does the tele mounts and he uses threaded inserts and epoxy on those. They don't charge much and have the responsibility, so it seems worth it. I also enjoy stopping there, talking gear and picking up yet another kind of wax.
*Edited changing heli-coil to threaded insert.
Last edited by wabene on Mon Dec 12, 2022 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ha ha, yeah I just put the Titebond 3 up there for discussion, I've never used it. I'm a contractor and there aren't too many days that pass when I don't drive a screw. For whatever reason I always have my local, Continental Ski and Bike, do all my mounts. There is an older gentleman who does the tele mounts and he uses heli-coils and epoxy on those. They don't charge much and have the responsibility, so it seems worth it. I also enjoy stopping there, talking gear and picking up yet another kind of wax.
You just had to say "helicoil". Now I'm wondering if I want to helicoil the bindings. Clearly, it would let you remove and repair/replace the binding much easier but it would also make for a much stronger bond to the wood itself. I'm guessing you might also want to Loctite the screw you put into the helicoil? I've never put a helicoil into wood before... Then again, I've got some Titebond II on the shelf and the ski all prepped for drilling and install...
Rottefella has a nice template you can print out and I'm an experienced screwer.
EDIT:
I would love to know where that template link is!
It's a minor but critical detail, but make sure to verify that the template you print actually prints at a scale of 1:1.
Sometimes there is a scaling problem.
I think the printout requires legal paper.
Here is a great video on mounting the Xplore binding by @Tom M.
Last edited by Stephen on Tue Nov 01, 2022 6:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
